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What you need, tools, RCA to speaker wire, and wire taps/splicers. Wire diagram for Bose; http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/a...9&d=1304626920 Step one- Remove Seat, it has four bolts. They are covered by plastic caps that snap off. Step two- Unbolt Bose Amplifier, two visible bolts and one hidden under a flap of carpet. Then rotate it over. [IMG]http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn291/the4x4_rancherr/Mazda%203/004.jpg[/IMG Step three- Unplug the wires on the left side. Then strip back the fabric covering them ![]() ![]() Step four- I used the Left Rear speaker for signal. Just insert your wires into the splice and press down. Do the same for your amp on wire. ![]() Clean everything up with some zip-ties ![]() Step five- First test your connection by plugging them into your amp. Then run the wire under the carpet back to the trunk. ![]() Step six- Reinstall everything, be careful putting the seat back in. It has sharp edges that scratch stuff if your not careful. ![]() Now you should have some wonderful bass! ![]() If your talking about the Bass control though the Headunit, yes. I tuned my amp on +3 but its usually set on -6. Last edited by h.letchworth; 07-03-2011 at 12:29 PM. | ||||||||||||||||||
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Can you please post any pix of this setup? or give me a little more detail? I would like to get a bigger AMP for my BOSE system. I have a 2010 Speed3 with BOSE and it just isn't loud enough!! :-) BTW do you guys know if I could simply SWAP the BOSE amp using all the factory connection and just get a more poweful AMP to run my stock speakers? | |||||||||||||||||
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What pictures do you want? I can snap a few today, and just ask anything you need to know. As far as making it louder with a bigger amp, I know its possible. But you'd have to find someone who has already done it, wiring it in would be pretty simple. You would just have to make sure ever thing have the same amount of resistance (ohms) | ||||||||||||||||||
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Great pics. I'm always amused when I see some of the parts I work on in production vehicles. | |||||||||||||||||
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I'm thinking about making a new, smaller box. My truck space is alright, I just feel like I need more space. Some where towards 1.8cf. Anyways, anyone looking for a sub that can hit? Well Fi is where it's at. It broke two screws clean off of the front side of my box and the rest on the front were easly broken or broke going back in. ![]() My stepdad built the box, I consider it pretty good quality for his first box. | ||||||||||||||||||
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I am looking to do something similar to what you did here, however I am pretty new to all of this... when you say you used: "RCA to speaker wire" do you mean you had one of these converter things? link and you just spliced that into you rear speaker? thanks | ||||||||||||||||||
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I did much of the same this he did here but I tapped into the output signal of the sub using a LOC rather than the rear speakers. I tapped into these signals in the hatch area rather than right at the amp connection. The only other modification I did was to run the remote turn on from the cigarette lighter rather than out the amp. The system is sounding great and sub is pounding without any problems. I picked up my LOC from the audio store in town for $20. It didn't need to be anything fancy. What it sounds like the OP did was use something like this IEC 18 AWG Speaker Wire with RCA Male Black Cable 6 L7422-06 and tapped directly into the wire rather than using the LOC.
__________________ 2010 Mazda 3 GT w/ Tech Check out the Saint Louis Mazda Facebook Group www.facebook.com/stlmazda | |||||||||||||||||
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I appriciate the feedback... What would the main difference between using a LOC vs the RCA to speakerwire deal, or even the RCA hi/low converter? are there pros and cons to using one vs the other? I currently have a 2010 Mazda 3 with the Bose package... I was thinking about possibly removing the rear center speaker and putting in a 10" sub there. Mounting the amp next to it. what do you think would be the easiest way to pull something like that off? (or is that idea just retarded?) thanks... | ||||||||||||||||||
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I have the 2010 3 GT with Bose too. Hatchback. Personally, I hate the bose system since I cannot properly adjust it to get the best sound out, so eventually I will be replacing other things (speakers, tweeters, adding another amp). But for now I just added the sub and amp and it has made a difference in the sound. Better than what it was anyway. And as for replacing the center rear speaker with a sub, meh, I really don't know because I didn't try it. The optimal sound quality truly depends on the enclosure of the sub (whether it be ported or sealed). So I guess it would depend on how you would mount it. As for the amp, it can be mounted anywhere really, it just needs room to breathe. After going through and reading all the write ups on installing a sub in a 3 that has bose, the LOC seemed to be the best approach for me. There is the PAC out there that you can buy that plug right into the back of the factory head unit, but I decided to try this first. So far I have nothing but clean sound coming from the sub. No buzzing or humming, no problems at all.
__________________ 2010 Mazda 3 GT w/ Tech Check out the Saint Louis Mazda Facebook Group www.facebook.com/stlmazda | |||||||||||||||||
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