Front left brake problem...

[RTFM]

Hey guys, so I did some searching on the forum and could not find anyone post this problem yet. It has been about 3 weeks now that my front left brake has been having this squeaking sound. I figured it would pass but it hasn't. I have taken the wheel off twice already. Cleaned the rotors and brakes with a brake cleaner. It stopped for like 30 minutes when I did that but the squeaking came back. It only occurs when I am driving. I hear it once I let off the gas. At first I thought there was something on my rotor because its not a constant squeaking sound. It seems like it's passing a certain point in the rotor that causes that.
So basically I don't know what to do now... and it is truely bothering the shit out of me
What would you guys recommend I do? Get new front brakes or take off the rotor for a better inspection?
Any 2 cents will be greatly appreciated!

[RTFM]

I am starting to think it has something to do with my rotor...
When I let go to brake the steering wheel vibrates left and right slightly, or atleast more than it did before.

[hwdp pl]

Did you take it in, it can't be the brakes if your steering wheel is vibrating.

[Crespo]

Originally Posted by hwdp pl

Did you take it in, it can't be the brakes if your steering wheel is vibrating.

Not true. If your rotor is warped slightly, it will catch on the pads and cause your car to go left or right, depending on how warped it is and which side. After saying that, I think your rotor might be warped . Take it to the dealer and ask if they can check to see if the rotor is warped. Make sure you can replicate it for them as well. They might eb able to fix it by grinding them down a bit. Good luck in finding the issue.

[hwdp pl]

A warped rotor also doesn't make a sqeaking sound, it grinds, also your steering wheel will shake mostly when braking along with a pulsing brake pedal.

[RTFM]

its very very slight but I can feel a small pulse in the pedal when braking as well as a gentle vibration in the steering wheel. I'll give the stealership a call and see what they can do. If anything I might have to replace the rotor...

[hwdp pl]

Full Article :There's no such thing as 'warped' brake rotors - Orlando Autos | Examiner.com

Standard road cars use brakes that function mostly by abrasion, or the breaking down of the bonds between the pad material molecules by the friction generated by pushing the pads against the rotors. Under normal city conditions, the worn-away pad material is simply carried away as brake dust (the black dust commonly seen on wheels). However, under heavier braking, such as an emergency stop or slowing down from a highway exit, the brakes become much hotter, and that material can actually 'cook' to the brake rotors.

The best way to aid in this 'cooking' process is to keep the pads in constant pressurized contact with the rotors... by remaining firmly on the brakes after the vehicle has come to a complete stop.

As the pad material bonds to the rotor, the surface of the rotor then becomes uneven, and the brakes begin to vibrate at high speeds. The brake rotors do not warp, however. Even the most extreme braking conditions on public roads do not generate enough heat to cause the brake rotors to warp.

In reading the StopTech article and following its advice, I have safely avoided ever 'warping' rotors or experiencing any brake vibrations in over 100,000 miles of driving in many different vehicles.

To euphemize this as best as possible... I'm not exactly the slowest driver in the world. As a result of my driving style, I wear out two automotive components far more quickly than the average driver: tires and brake pads.

For example, a vehicle I used to drive a few years ago once needed brake pads at only 18,000 miles. However, that vehicle's rotors were in pristine condition at the time of the brake service, having no inconsistencies in thickness or braking surfaces, thus requiring no resurfacing.

On another occasion, I wore down a different vehicle's brake rotors to the point where a ¼-inch deep valley was formed in the rotor by several sets of brake pads. The rotors of course had served their purpose and needed replacement, but the brakes never shimmied or pulsated at any time.

I've also done numerous premature brake jobs on my personal vehicles, not just as a result of my lead foot, but because of a few autocrosses and rallycrosses along the way. But not once have I needed to replace or resurface rotors.

I follow this one simple rule to avoid brake vibrations: when I come to a hard stop, I immediately release the brakes completely as soon as the car is stopped. I even go so far as to take the vehicle out of gear to ensure that it does not move when I release the brakes. This disallows the brake pads to transfer the worn material onto the rotor.

Now, as the StopTech article points out, rotors that are already heavily embedded with pad material, and thus full of vibrations, are likely ruined. The 'cooked'-on pad material is called cementite, and it is pretty much permanent, where no amount of resurfacing can remove it.

So, if you're currently driving a vehicle with excessive brake vibrations, simply have the rotors replaced at your next brake service, and follow the rule of releasing the brakes completely after a hard stop from then on.

By doing so, only your brake pads will require replacing at your next brake service, thus saving you time and a lot of money.

[Crespo]

Thanks for the recap. While I didn't know about the brake dust bonding with the rotor(hence the warped rotor comment), I did know that regrinding the surface can possibly help. Learn something new everyday

[Hailskins]

Check your dust shield, others have complained that they can get bent from installing and removing wheels. It could be making slight contact with your rotor.

[RTFM]

Originally Posted by Hailskins

Check your dust shield, others have complained that they can get bent from installing and removing wheels. It could be making slight contact with your rotor.

I noticed that but apparently when I straightened it out it still continued to make the squeaking noise. I thought that the shield was causing the noise but its not. I'll take another look but honestly I think it has something to do with the rotor.
What would you guys recommend I do? Call the dealership- I'm sure they might charge me for a diagnose of this problem...