Camber link install

[warlord]

Dropping my car and maxing out my front camber I havent seen increased wear. For a daily driver -1.7 is enough to give you better cornering with out accelerated wear on the inner tread. Unless 99% of your driving is on the highway. If you installed the k-mac plates up front and ran something like -3.5 you would see more inner treadwear and also straight line traction and braking would be diminished. The car would also torque steer more and would want to track over every little groove in the road. The k-macs are good for the hardcore autox guys that run real wide tires and want every bit of traction in the turns that they can get. Not so good for a DD though that sees a good part of it's use in a straight line. All I could squeeze out of my front struts was -1.55. Really the only thing bad that I've heard about the k-mac's is that they make a clicking sound when you go over bumps.

[andyx626]

hey warlord i want to ask another question is that if i placed the order from streetunit for the camber links on my mazda 3 2010 sport it will be no problem taking it to the shop and let them install it? i really just want to fix the back cambers since the wheels are like angling in and don't want that tire wear over time.

[warlord]

It would save you a lot of aggravation if you let the shop install them. So I guess you'll have to pay for the install and then you should probably get an alignment as the rear toe will change due to the new camber setting. If your going to lower your car, do everything at once.

[hwdp pl]

Getting these in today, this is going to be one hell of a night!

[amati5]

Hey, Warlord
I know this is old but your post is so far the only info on the installation of the camber kits for 10+. If you have to do this over again, what would you do differently to make it easier? I am think of using the box end ratchet wrench to speed up the process of removing 10mm bolts (seems to be the hardest part). Do you think that would work? How deep is it, do I need an extra long one or some sort of an extension. I looked briefly when I rotated my tires and didn't see any bolts, just a silver cover, about 1 in from the camber's bolt (may be if I am lucky, the sedan is different from the hatch). How many of these 10mm nuts that are hard to get to? My Eibach kits are coming so I am just trying to prepare.

Thanks

[warlord]

I'd use a crowbar to bend the box out of the way. Fuck that tiny bolt and turning it a 1/16th at a time for nearly two hours. I still remember that install day. Pure torture. Wear safety glases. Don't ask.

[Neggert]

I beat on that little box to bend it out of the way. Dont worry, you wont break anything! Just get it to where its out of the way and you will be golden. 3 hours can be cut down to 15 minutes tops.

[amati5]

That sounds encouraging. Thanks.

[amati5]

I decided to bring it to the shop because of lack of tools. The guy spent less than an hour for both side. The car being on the lift gave him much better access to that 10mm bolt. I know it was within spec before the kits and most people said it's not needed. But I can tell the car feels much more natural now. Before, it was sort of tweaky or jittery with -2.X camber and after a fast turn, when you straighten out your steering, it jerked a bit, not smooth. At hwy speed, it was tramlining quite a bit, depending on the surface.

I think my gas mileage will improve too (it dropped 2 after lowering, and even with lighter wheels/tires).

[Neggert]

Originally Posted by amati5

That sounds encouraging. Thanks.

haha. but hey it gets the job done doesnt it? When i put coils on my new car i will be much more careful