Camber link install

[warlord]

Here's some before and after pics. The idea is strait forward. You can vary the length of the arms to change the camber. Installation on the driver side is easy. Access to the bolts are easy to get to. The passenger side is a total nightmare. There is a five sided steel box that houses some kind of fuel sensor. I believe it has something to do with whether the fuel cap is screwed on correctly. It also protects the fuel fill line from road debris and in the event you have a rear end collision. It blocks one of the bolts you need to remove from the camber arm. It can't be bent out of the way. The only option is to loosen it's 10mm mounting bolt. Problem is that it was installed to the top of the frame rail before the body was lowered onto the car at the factory. Access is so limited that you can only get one finger on the bolt. Took me over three hours with an open ended wrench just to loosen it up enough to move the box out of the way. If you take the bolt out completely there is now way you would be able to thread it back in. Just have keep loosening it one turn at a time to see if the camber bolt clears the box. I don't really notice any better handling but the rear of the car is deffinately softer over bumps. I think it's because the weight is spread out over then entire width of the tire instead of the inner sidewall bearing all the load. Before I could only run approx 32-33 psi in the rear before it felt rough now I've got the rear up to 35psi and it still feels soft. You can see in the before pic that only half of the outer tread is being used and in the after pic the whole outer tread is being used. It should help with tire wear! Camber before: -2.5 Camber after: -1.4 EDIT:2/24/10 Finally have settled on -1.7 as -1.4 is great around town but just to unstable at hwy speeds -1.7 is a good compromise for both.

[dunston]

Awesome job! Post up some pics for us underneath the car, too.

Is the camber off in the front too by any chance?

[warlord]

No pics of the install. If you pull the right rear tire you can see the the metal box. The more camber in the front the better. Wish I had more!

[Argon]

I am dreading having to install these.

[warlord]

Definitely an exercise in patience to install them. I'm really happy with the results. I just did some on ramps at hyper speed and the car feels really neutral now. The front and rear start to break at essentially the same time. You can really feel the car put weight on the outside rear wheel when accelerating out of a turn. All I need now are some koni yellows for the rear and I'm done. Unless CS comes out with some chassis braces that I can't resist. I probably need to get an alignment done again because the rear toe probably changed with the camber change.

[dunston]

How much shock travel is left in the rear with the stock shocks?

[warlord]

I don't have an exact number but there's a decent amount left. I did look at the bump stops and they haven't been touched. The Prokits don't drop the rear as much as the front.

[x2001pmq]

Who's link kit did you use? Also I assume u needed this becAuse you put on some lowering springs. Which ones did you get?

[ReD-DrAgOn]

Koni Yellow's and Eibach Pro-Kit

[Argon]

He used SPC camber links.