K&N Typhoon SRI 69-6012TS installed

[n1smo]

Got the intake off Amazon.com for $230 which is kind of expensive for a SRI, I remembered paying about that much for the AEM CAI but this intake does come with a cool looking heat shield that finishes the engine bay quite well. The install was easy, I was installing the JBarone Shift Plate at the same time so it took a few minutes longer but over all, it took just over an hour.

The intake sounds great, I don't have anything else to compare it to so I don't know how loud it is compared to the other SRIs but you can definitely hear the turbo spool up and the BPV doing it's thing. Any louder and it would be too ricey for me. So its going to be stock BPV for me unless it starts leaking then I'll look into the Cobb BPV or just get other OEM. No CEL for me yet but I've only put about 500 miles on it. Can't feel the claimed 25 whp but that number seemed way too optimistic for an intake anyway. However, I have no doubt that this is superior to the stock intake though as the stock box looks very restrictive.

[Alex_Speed25]

I would think you would be able to tell the difference in HP gains, but your saying no in your post... so ultimatly this is just a cosmetic mod (looks/sound)? Thats depressing... Can you further explain in detail at all what your feeling on the ole butt dyno?

I just might stop being gay and finally buy a performance mod one day so please let me know if I am going to go faster or not with this thing bolted on..

[sheldonross]

SRI's are definitely power adders. Most manufacturers actually have dyno charts to back it up to. I'm guessing your butt dyno is just not sensitive enough to detect the probable 10-15hp difference. K&N's estimate of 24 is probably high. CP-E's gives about 14hp.

cpe dyno:
http://www.cp-e.com/imgs/SP3NanoHP.JPG

[Oliverms3]

do you still have a stock TIP or aftermarket one? if not.. replace that POS TIP and you should see/feel better gains.

[n1smo]

I have no doubt that the SRI is giving me gains but my butt dyno is telling me that it is not 24whp's worth. It does sound ridiculously good and it looks great. The gains are there just by looking at how stupid the stock box is. It is literally sucking in air through a straw. This is what a properly designed intake look like:

[n1smo]

Originally Posted by Oliverms3

do you still have a stock TIP or aftermarket one? if not.. replace that POS TIP and you should see/feel better gains.

From what I've read, the TIP doesn't really do anything. Even if there are gains, it won't be much. I think I'll just do the fuel pump internals and AP and call it a day....

[Sp33dyGarcia]

Originally Posted by n1smo

From what I've read, the TIP doesn't really do anything. Even if there are gains, it won't be much. I think I'll just do the fuel pump internals and AP and call it a day....

The gains are "decent" but unless u get the CS it's not worth an xtra 180+ $$$$$

[warlord]

Here's the oem TIP that I just replaced with a cp-e TIP. It's counter productive to buy a nice aftermarket SRI or CAI that flows well and supplies all the ambient air that the turbo can posssibly use and then try to squeeze it throught this tiny little oem straw. As for the CS TIP. U get what U pay for. If you own a Mazdaspeed U know that the engine bay gets hot enough to grill steaks. The CS Tip is metal. The more expensive ones are silicone. A metal TIP heat soaks and is counter productive. The silicone insulates against heat. The CS TIP is 2.5" diameter the CP-E and Cobb TIP are 3". I live in a hot climate. Even if the silicone TIP was less expensive I would buy it over a metal TIP. Also Cobb's AP has a specific tune for a TIP install so it must do something. Even if a silicone TIP doesn't produce hp itself it feed the turbo less turbulent air than that's closer to ambient temp. If your just aiming for Stage1 a TIP isn't really required. If Stage2 is your goal then a TIP is probably a good idea.

OEM TIP vs CP-E TIP (#1 & #2 oem) (#3 CP-E)

[Sp33dyGarcia]

Originally Posted by warlord

Here's the oem TIP that I just replaced with a cp-e TIP. It's counter productive to buy a nice aftermarket SRI or CAI that flows well and supplies all the ambient air that the turbo can posssibly use and then try to squeeze it throught this tiny little straw. As for the CS TIP. U get what U pay for. If you own a Mazdaspeed U know that the engine bay gets hot enough to grill steaks. The CS Tip is metal. The more expensive ones are silicone. One heat soaks and is counter productive. The silicone insulates against heat. The CS is 2.5" diameter the CP-E and Cobb TIP are 3". I live in a hot climate. Even if the silicone TIP was less expensive, I would buy it over a metal TIP. Also Cobb has a specific tune for a TIP install so it must do something. Even if a silicone TIP doesn't produce hp itself it feed the turbo less turbulent air than that's closer to ambient temp.

OEM TIP vs CP-E TIP (#1 & #2 oem) (#3 CP-E)

I stand corrected

[warlord]

What sucks about having a Stage 1 Cobb tune with a TIP and Intake installed is that it's less agressive that just having a Cobb Stage 1 tune with just an intake. Because of the better flow of the TIP Cobb dials back the boost and fuel so you don't kill your fuel pump. When you go to Stage 2 Cobb dials up the fuel pressure and boost to take advantage of the better TIP flow. So I'm in between Stages right now. I need a down pipe and all will be good and I'll be able to take advantage of the Autotech internals and TIP I just bought. If I don't go Stage 2 then the internals and Tip will have been a total waste of money. CP-E catted DP is next!