Amp/Sub install with factory radio and LOC - 2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 02:12 AM Thread Starter
JONtheBOMB
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Amp/Sub install with factory radio and LOC

Finally got around to posting a how to on this install. Don't think there’s a complete right up on this yet so here goes.

I’m taking the system from my old 300zx. My main concern was to maintain the stock look inside the cabin and under the hood while having the ability to remove the box/amp if I need the extra trunk space.

I started by attaching the amp to the back of the sub.


Then dismantle the interior panels. This part is surprisingly easy. Most parts are just pulled of:




Some have this type of clip:


Just pull out the center part with your nail and then it pops off:


Probably the trickiest part is finding a place to run the power cable through the firewall so that you can't see it under the hood. We jacked up the car and found a soft rubber grommet around the steering column hidden by a plastic cover:





Next remove the glove box:


Then the radio, I used BP gift cards to separate the center vents from the microphone and then pull it back towards the rear of the car. These are just clips and good force will pop it loose, just take care not to scratch/bend the plastic, it’s very soft. Then a couple screws keep the radio in place.




At this point wire in the LOC, there is a wiring diagram for the big plug behind the radio here: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=145935.0
My_Mazda3 has a good write up there. I spliced the front speaker wires labeled "1A, 1C, 1D, 1F" on the diagram or "FL+, FL-, FR+, FR-" respectively. My LOC also had a ground which I spliced aswell, its "1W" (the big black one). Once wired in all thats left is to hide the LOC and run the RCA cables.

There is a nice little spot under the radio on the passenger side that’s big enough to hide the LOC (green thing) out of site:



Now the easy part, run the Power and Remote Cable on the driver side and the RCA cable on the passenger side. They should come around behind the rear seats then connect the Amp:



Now you can put all the panels on, clean up and enjoy your enhanced bass :-)

I did this install with my brother, both of us are pretty handy around cars, and it took us about 4 hours. Big Thanks to my_mazda3 for that wiring diagram.

From what I've read on other posts on running the power cable I think the steering column is the best place to run this. It looks really clean and with the battery cover on, the power cable is virtually invisible.

Next post is the finished product...

Last edited by JONtheBOMB; 11-08-2009 at 01:47 AM. Reason: Update
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 02:24 AM Thread Starter
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This is the finished product,

My favorite part... under the hood



This is the only visible sign of the power cable, btw the fuse fits in the batter cover, too


This is after the install the cable is under the platic cover around the steering column.



The passenger side:


The Cool part:


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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 02:30 AM
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Not bad. 4 gauge or 8? Where did you mount the fuse holder under the hood? In the battery box? Also, please tell me there was a jack stand supporting your car when you were under there. If not, you must have a death wish.

EDIT: Doh, I didn't see where you posted the fuse location.

Car is sold, but I am happy to answer any questions about my 3. -
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Last edited by Derrick_B; 10-16-2009 at 10:06 AM.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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8 gauge wire, more than enough for my amp (its big for nothing). Here are some pics of the fuse.








BTW, always use jack stands, safety first

I would have done this in the garage but we were working on the civic. Adjustable shocks, coilovers, camber adjustment, complete bushing kit, front and rear disc brake conversion, non power steering rack and pinion and of course rims. Ready for AutoX.

Its my dad's car and I keep telling him that the MS3 going to whoop it with the A/C on!
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 11:31 AM
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Thanks for the pics! Going to do the big 3 upgrade as well?

I would think the MS3 could take the Civic easily, depending on how "open" the track is. Only one way to find out

Car is sold, but I am happy to answer any questions about my 3. -
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derrick_B View Post
Thanks for the pics! Going to do the big 3 upgrade as well?

I would think the MS3 could take the Civic easily, depending on how "open" the track is. Only one way to find out
I probably won't do much more to the 3 for a while. I'll wait until I have options as far as intake goes and thats about it. The car rides so nice and handles great already I just wouldn't want to ruin how comfortable it is as a daily driver. I did everything but big power on my 300zx and every mod just made the car louder, bumpier and less reliable that I dont want that to happen again.

Gotta wait and see what the old man can do with the civic, the suspensions tight and its way lighter. the tracks down here are ussually pretty small unless they do it at the speedway. Like I said my first run after a break the car in for a while will be with the A/C on.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 03:34 PM
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I was referring to the big 3 wiring upgrade (alt to battery, battery to chassis, and engine ground to chassis).

How to upgrade the Big Three

This will ensure that everything is grounded properly. The OEM wire is just enough for what's in the stock car, so the big 3 is generally recommended whenever you do an upgrade to avoid things like dimming lights

Car is sold, but I am happy to answer any questions about my 3. -
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 04:23 PM
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Good job on the write up!

FYI thre's also another firewall passthough on the passenger's side, kind of behind the glove box...it's covered by a white plastic plug. My installer drilled a hole in the plastic plug, fitted it with a grommet and pulled the 4ga through.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 04:51 PM
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Yeah, I've seen someone use that grommet on the 2010's as well. I really want to keep power on the driver's side, if possible. I guess I'll have to check it out.

Car is sold, but I am happy to answer any questions about my 3. -
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-16-2009, 04:55 PM
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The one plus to the passenger's side is that you don't need to get under the car at all...if that makes any difference.
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