How to install Short Ram Intake on SkyActive - 2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
marsicanok
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How to install Short Ram Intake on SkyActive

I tackled the install of my Corksport Short Ram Air Intake the other night. Its a very easy install.
I decided to post a "How-To" because although there is a thread on how to do a 2.5L engine, I did not see one for the SkyActive (SA) model.

I believe this install will work for other SRI's as well, if its not Corksport.

Here is what you are going to receive in the box from Corksport;
Filter (Blue, right)
MAF Housing (Black, left)
Silicone Tubing (Black, center)
Three T-Clamps (Bottom)
Click image for larger version

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Before you do anything, disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Removing Stock Intake

First, make sure your MAF sensor fits in the provided MAF housing. The housing differs between the SA model and the 2.5 model. The distance between the screw holes are different. There are also aluminum pillars that raise the MAF sensor up higher on the 2.5 model MAF housing that does not allow the SA model MAF sensor to seat correctly.
Click image for larger version

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To remove the MAF sensor, remove the two screws that hold it into the air box as well as the connector in between the two screws.
Click image for larger version

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Once the screws are removed and the connector is disconnected, pull the MAF sensor straight up while twisting. There is a rubber o-ring that seals the MAF sensor hole that will create some friction while removing the sensor.
In this photo you can see the black o-ring.
Click image for larger version

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Make sure your MAF sensor fits. Push the MAF sensor straight down into the MAF housing of the new SRI while twisting, ensuring not to pinch the o-ring. Put the screws in and make sure you can get a nice, snug fit. If it does, move on. If it does not, contact Corksport and they will help you out!

Once this is done, your going to remove another sensor that is located in the rubber tubing that goes to the throttle body. While doing this, also pull the coolant line out of the foam clip on the same tubing.
Click image for larger version

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After that, you are going to loosen the two Philips head screws that clamp the rubber tubing to the throttle body and air box. I do not have a picture for this.

Once the two clamps are loosened, carefully pull the rubber tubing off of the throttle body and air box. It is rubber, so it can bend to get it off easier.
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Once that is removed, you need to remove the bolt in the front of the air box. This is the only bolt holding the air box in. The first picture is the bolt, the second is zoomed out so you can see where it is in the engine bay.
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Once that bolt is removed, remove the plastic intake tube located in the front of the car. There is a clip on the top and bottom of the end of this plastic tube, closest to the front grill.
Click image for larger version

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Now just pull the entire air box straight up. You have to jockey it out of the area around the bracket where you took the bolt out that held the air box in. The only thing holding the air box in are two little rubber grommets under the air box that two little pegs on the bottom of the air box slide into.
Grommets
Click image for larger version

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Pegs
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Now you should see this...
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Don't mind the red wire, that is the power source to my amplifier.

You will see a second air inlet tube. I believe this is just bringing in air from a separate location. You do not do anything with this piece.
Click image for larger version

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Installing SRI
Assemble the new SRI by sliding the silicone tubing over the side of the MAF housing with the arrow that says "airflow" pointing to the silicone tubing. Use one of the larger clamps to clamp this into place. Don't tighten yet, your going to need to move it around and make sure it lines up correctly.

Place the filter over the other end of the MAF housing with the second of the large clams around the bottom of the filter. Tighten this clamp as well. The filter you won't have to twist around as much so you can snug that clamp now.

Place the last, the smallest, clamp over the other end if the silicone tubing and slide this onto the throttle body as far as you can. There is a stopper on the throttle body that will not let it go any further back. Tighten this clamp so you can twist it if necessary.

Orient the silicone tubing so the little inlet is pointing up.
Orient the MAF housing so the MAF sensor is pointing up; so you can see the screws holding it in and the connector can go straight into the port.

Once everything is oriented as stated above, tighten down firmly. You DO NOT want this to be able to twist around.

Reconnect the connection for the MAF sensor, and place the other sensor in the small inlet on the silicone tubing. Make sure this is all the way down and there are no gaps.

Once all is said and done, reconnect that negative terminal on the battery.
Turn the car on and test the intake. Listen for leaks.

If your check engine light is on, turn the car off, remove the negative battery terminal again for 3-5 minutes and then re-connect it. Turn the car on and it should be gone.

And there you have it!
Click image for larger version

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Hope this helps anybody that was looking for it.
If I missed anything or need to clarify anything, please let me know.
As I said, this is my first "How-To" post.

Thanks!


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2012 MazdaSpeed3

Cobb AccessPort V3 - OTS Stage 1+ Tune (93)

Special Edition Shinka RX-8 Wheels (18in) w/ Continental DWS06, 5mm Spacers F/R
20% Tint
Corksport SRI & TIP
Corksport Test Pipe
Muffler Delete
JBR 88 RMM
H&R Coilovers
Racing Beat Rear Sway Bar
DDM 6K HID Kit
2x 12" Memphis Subwoofers (Sealed Box)
Memphis Mono-Block Amp (250rms)
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 09:50 PM
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Nice write up!


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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
marsicanok
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Thanks a lot! Hope it helps some people out. Doing installs yourself makes you feel a lot better about your car.


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2012 MazdaSpeed3

Cobb AccessPort V3 - OTS Stage 1+ Tune (93)

Special Edition Shinka RX-8 Wheels (18in) w/ Continental DWS06, 5mm Spacers F/R
20% Tint
Corksport SRI & TIP
Corksport Test Pipe
Muffler Delete
JBR 88 RMM
H&R Coilovers
Racing Beat Rear Sway Bar
DDM 6K HID Kit
2x 12" Memphis Subwoofers (Sealed Box)
Memphis Mono-Block Amp (250rms)
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 03:47 AM
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Basic but informative, very good. For bonus points, take off the front bumper and remove the intake resonator and its heavy-ass mounting brackets -- you don't need them anymore! Use the space to run some ducting from the bumper (cut out the fog light shroud or something) to feed the SRI, your engine will appreciate the cooler air.


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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by color0 View Post
Basic but informative, very good. For bonus points, take off the front bumper and remove the intake resonator and its heavy-ass mounting brackets -- you don't need them anymore! Use the space to run some ducting from the bumper (cut out the fog light shroud or something) to feed the SRI, your engine will appreciate the cooler air.
I was going to look into piece that tomorrow. So that small tubing in the bottom is a resonator?

If I end up doing it ill definitely explain how in this post.


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2012 MazdaSpeed3

Cobb AccessPort V3 - OTS Stage 1+ Tune (93)

Special Edition Shinka RX-8 Wheels (18in) w/ Continental DWS06, 5mm Spacers F/R
20% Tint
Corksport SRI & TIP
Corksport Test Pipe
Muffler Delete
JBR 88 RMM
H&R Coilovers
Racing Beat Rear Sway Bar
DDM 6K HID Kit
2x 12" Memphis Subwoofers (Sealed Box)
Memphis Mono-Block Amp (250rms)
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 05:36 PM
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Yeah, it empties out into a closed-end box, which is then held on to the front crash structure by two unnecessarily beefy brackets. With the stock airbox you'd want to keep it, but it's just dead weight otherwise.


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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 07:48 PM
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Great write up. Added tp DUI Sticky thread

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@Username And it will notify the person of your post.
Ex. @velez3sport


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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by color0 View Post
Yeah, it empties out into a closed-end box, which is then held on to the front crash structure by two unnecessarily beefy brackets. With the stock airbox you'd want to keep it, but it's just dead weight otherwise.
I'm goona look into that tomorrow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Velez3Sport View Post
Great write up. Added tp DUI Sticky thread
Good to hear!




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2012 MazdaSpeed3

Cobb AccessPort V3 - OTS Stage 1+ Tune (93)

Special Edition Shinka RX-8 Wheels (18in) w/ Continental DWS06, 5mm Spacers F/R
20% Tint
Corksport SRI & TIP
Corksport Test Pipe
Muffler Delete
JBR 88 RMM
H&R Coilovers
Racing Beat Rear Sway Bar
DDM 6K HID Kit
2x 12" Memphis Subwoofers (Sealed Box)
Memphis Mono-Block Amp (250rms)
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-09-2013, 10:57 PM
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Time to tackle this install and get it over with! This would probably be my first major mod besides the add ons. Superb write up. Thanks!
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-09-2013, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marsicanok View Post
I'm goona look into that tomorrow.
Did you ever look into this. I'm curious myself but I don't have much free time on my hands lately to poke around

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