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__________________ Mods:Cobb Accessport Stage 2, Corksport SRI TIP,CP-E catless DP, DDM 6000K HId, DDM pedals, JBR RMM, rear bumper guards, JBR heavy knob, magnaflow cat-back exhaust, forge bpv, twm short throw shifter Corny tune:321HP 394TQ | ||||||||||||||||||
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Do it, if they can get you into the 2012 with little or nothing out of you pocket. It'd be like getting 30k miles extra for a few bucks.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed3 - Celestial Blue Mica 2012 Mazda3 Skyactiv - Liquid Silver Metallic | ||||||||||||||||||
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If the loan is not longer than ur current loan, it would be like getting a new car for the price of a 2009. If it is any longer or more expensive though i wouldn't do it. It sounds like you really like your car, and if you are really attached to it, nothing can replace senimental value. BTW They are different styles, what style do u like better
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Newer + lower miles + same monthly payment doesn't sound like a bad deal.. Go in just check out what they offer you for your car see what the payment will be and test drive the new speed3 see if you like it better then yours...and then start to think if you want to do it..don't agree right away..
__________________ ![]() 2011 MZ3 Sport-(black out emblems)(ddm 35w 4500k hid's)(axela emblem)(osram sylvania bulbs fog lights)(yellow fog lights tint)(interior blue tints)(custom license plate bracket)(3inch antenna)(window visors) | ||||||||||||||||||
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Depending on whether or not the term of the loan is lengthened new is always more desirable than used IMO...especially when it comes to performance cars and warranties. I mean, just because the previous owner of your current car claims to have "babied" it and never driven it hard, that does not mean she didn't do some unforeseen wear to the engine by driving it/maintaining it incorrectly (loading the engine while at low RPM or even filling it with 87 to save money). I don't know that I would ever feel comfortable buying a used performance car (jut a personal quirk of mine I guess) so depending on the deal that the dealer is willing to work out, it might be worth your while to consider it. | ||||||||||||||||||
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I would say depending on the deal you get, go for it. There is much to be gained with no cost to you. Just be smart and dont let them sweet talk you. Pay attention to what matters most for you. If they really want your car bad enough you might be able to get them to toss in some goodies if you really ham it up and make it look like your doing them a favor by trading your "baby"
__________________ Mods to date: JDM Tein H-tech Springs (test) ~ CS RMM Insert ~ DDM 12000k HID Fog Lights ~ Switchback Signal Bulbs ~UV Nagare Accent Lights ~ FI Ground Kit (test) ~ CS Tow Plate ~ Tint: 15%R, 30%F, Air blue on WS ~ CWP Fog Bezels ~ CS 60mm exhaust ~ Redline Hood Lift Kit ~MSDS Header (test) ~ CS LED Interior Lights ~ Megan Racing STB (test) ~ Fujita SRI (test) ~ Kosei K1 TS 17x8 ~ VTCS Delete ~ N9th Racing Trunk Bar ~ AautoEXE front lower tie brace ~ RW Delete ~ Sure TVS caps HAHAHAHAHA told you nothing was going to happen | ||||||||||||||||||
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I paid for almost the entire car outright so I have very little on the loan. I know she could have definitely lied about the upkeep of the car but, man I'm telling you, this thing feels brand new in every way. | ||||||||||||||||||
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__________________ ![]() 2010 BM MS3 - Cobb AP,ETS TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Forge BPV, Denso Iridium ITV22, CP-E SRI, PG TIP, SU RMM, TurboXS DP, TP, ARK Exhaust, NRG ETD, 30% e85 mix tuned 346hp 392tq of sexyness DDM 55w 5000k HIDs and DDM 35w 3000k HID fogs, COBB shifter weight, BC Coilovers w/ Eibach rear Camber Kit, 18x8 +35 RPF1 245/40 re760 Potenza, HKS TT Type 0. MOCCFORUMSCalifornia Mazda forum | ||||||||||||||||||
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I would only really do it if you are (1) in the market for a new car or (2) you agree to the terms of the new loan. Do not get tricked into the statement of “same monthly payment”. Pay attention to what you will end up paying at the end of that loan. For example, if your current car loan is say $300 a month and you have 12 months left, your out of pocket expense is going to be a lot more with a $300 a month payment on a 60 month loan. Also you need to look at the value of your car and when to sell/trade to get the most bang for your buck. I always buy my cars new and for me that is about 6 to 8 years. Since you bought your car used, you did not suffer the new car depreciation affect so it might be only 3 to 4 years of ownership to be worth it. | ||||||||||||||||||
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