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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
Arka3L
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Question Odd clutch noises

Hey all,

New to the forums. I'm hoping someone can possibly point me in the right direction before paying nth number of diagnostics from dealers to figure out the issue i'm experiencing.

'10 Mazda 3 - When the car is cold, as I go to engage or disengage the clutch, more suddenly then slow, I get a squeak/squelch coming from what sounds like under the car, nearer the drivers side. This is NOT master or slave cylinders or the peddle itself. Definitely the engagement/disengagement of the clutch. After the car has warmed up for over 10 minutes, the sound is no longer reproducible until it cools again. Here is a video of the sound i hear. Sorry it's not very loud. This is after the car has been running for a few minutes. Any ideas?

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
Arka3L
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Sorry, try this youtube link youtu.be/SYA8Re3-LFY just add https:// infront - I can't seem to edit my post or post links which is absurd.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 07:03 AM
GearHd6
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I really can't make much out from that video, it just sounds like you pushing the clutch. Usually a noise from the clutch as you push the clutch is either the throw out bearing or sometimes the pilot bearing.

How many miles does the car have?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
Arka3L
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I'll see about getting some more videos but the car has 68k miles. My dad thought it might be the throw out bearing too but I wanted to get other opinions. If it is in the clutch housing, sounds like a big job?
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 10:33 AM
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I would say first try to lube the moving parts of the clutch pedal itself my 08 had a squeaky pedal and white lithium grease solved that, it can be had in a spray can at any parts store or wally world, liquid wrench brand makes the one I use religiously on door hinges and any moving item that needs lube but does not need to look pretty (their silicone spray would be the choice for parts that need lube but are visible). could just be a dry moving part in your pedal. One question which motor is in your car? 2.0 or 2.5? that will help as well as they both have different trannys in them, 2.0 is a 5 speed 2.5 is a 6 and their clutches are different (same size but slightly different parts) the 2.5 seems to have a few issues with clutches from 2010 (first year of this gen and 6 speeds in the n/a cars, my 08 was the 2.3 regular hatch and 5 speed manual) If you end up wanting/needing a replacement rockauto.com is a good bet exedy stage 1 are great choices, so is summit racing


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
Arka3L
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I appreciate the input, but as mentioned in my initial post, this is not the peddle. Could it be the engine mounts? I also got the noise this morning when i was simply accelerating very briefly pulling out of my drive way. Clutch was fully engaged. Here is a video from under the car when the clutch is quickly engaged.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Car is 2.0L
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 03:46 PM
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Wow, that transmission twists a lot! I'd check that mount back by the steering rack.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 03:46 PM
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yes that actually does sound familiar to me, does it also have rough engagement into a certain gear like 2nd? as in it takes a little more effort to push into the gate for that gear then normal? if so I would bet money your passenger motor mount has failed (under the coolant tank) this mount is notoriously weak on these models and fails rather annoyingly fast, the 1st gens (04-09s) where worse but these still do it.

all the motors (expect the speed) use the same rubber sections of the mounts from 04-13 the passenger bracket changed slightly from 04-09 to 10+ but the rubber inset part shows too be the same part (not the skyactiv or speed versions) to easily inspect that mount look at it, look for leaks that look like oil or power steering leaks but are right under and on that mount (it has hydraulic fluid in it) rips or tears in the rubber of the mount, or extremely soft rubber that collapses when you touch it (mine is currently in this stage and will need replacement soon, just kinda waiting till it gets worse, don't wanna use up my Saturday on this yet)

its easy to change though an air wrench or some strong might will help break the bolts free they are 17mm (all 4 the 2 nuts that mount it to the engine and 2 bolts that mount the u bracket to the frame) then if you buy just the insert and reuse the bracket the insert slides over a pole in the bracket and just rides there. then just bolt it back up, obviously you need to support the engine doing this a jack and a good block of wood help here, be careful and lift by the oil pan slowly using 2-3 people to help keep an eye on things helps as well. you don't need to lift much just enough to get the weight off the bolts/nuts and mount.

the drivers one is easy as well and should probably be done at the same time as the passenger (rubber rot and easier to jack the engine once) it is a "wishbone" type one under the engine (the one gearhd6 referred to right above me) the repair manual says to remove the air box and battery before doing this mount but I did it all underneath without removing anything else but the splash shield on my 08 2.3 and should be very similar on your car since the block and actual outer parts of the engine are fairly identical because the 2.0 2.3 and 2.5 are just bored and stroked different using the same block (though the drivers one rarely fails at lower miles, it is 7 years old now and rubber in the heat under the hood and outside in general will rot out especially at 7 years old) the passenger one absorbs most all the vibrations and shifting movement so a weak or fail mount there will make this more noticeable, there is a tranny mount but its stronger then the motor mounts seem to be and I never had any issues with it so it will probably be ok left alone

here is a youtube video that gives you an idea of where they should be (his is a 1st gen car but again uses same mounts so its the same thing) most of the time when you buy a new passenger ount you just get the rubber and have to reuse that bracket his broke out of (it just slides down and in) :

and I agree with gearhd6 the transmission moves way too much, what probably happened is your passenger failed and then the driver was doing all the work and over strained and has now failed too, so change them both.


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Last edited by kms1990; 02-02-2017 at 04:40 PM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Most of the videos i've watched regarding bad motor mounts, people have experienced or complained of vibrations. As far as my movement, is this also a common trait for bad passenger or rear mount even without the noise? I'll definitely be taking a look.
As for the transmission mount, that too will require a closer look as it would seem directly related to the amount of movement witnessed in the video. Here is a similar noise that the author of the video said the dealer claimed a TMM issue.



If I found out that none of my mount seals are broken and cracked, then it's more likely to be internal? You'll have to excuse my ignorance as I'm completely new to all this but finding it exciting to learn about cars more intimately.
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