slow acceleration, moves past 5k RPM (OZ Spec) - 2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums
User Tag List

 2Likes
  • 2 Post By kms1990
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
btijet
Junior Member
Points: 386, Level: 7
Points: 386, Level: 7 Points: 386, Level: 7 Points: 386, Level: 7
Activity: 25%
Activity: 25% Activity: 25% Activity: 25%
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 10
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
 
Exclamation slow acceleration, moves past 5k RPM (OZ Spec)

Hi everyone

Ive got a Mazda BL SP25 (2.5L)

I bought this car with 160,000kms on the clock, I drive fairly aggresive, i notice that my car doesn't have much power down low, but i feel a kick up top @ 5k RPM, is this how the car should drive normally?

I doubt it should as the power is felt as if its hitting boost (turbo, very noticeable even from passenger). Also my fuel consumption is shocking, I get 370kms out of a full tank.

And rarely sometimes when i start the car it takes about 5 secs or so, this happens maybe once every month.

Any suggestions/fix on the problem would be great. I use 91 octane usually and sometimes premium 98. The car runs exactly the same on both, No error codes on scan etc.

Last edited by btijet; 03-10-2017 at 07:05 AM.
btijet is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 11:22 AM
Road Trip
Gearhead
Points: 5,617, Level: 48
Points: 5,617, Level: 48 Points: 5,617, Level: 48 Points: 5,617, Level: 48
Activity: 100%
Activity: 100% Activity: 100% Activity: 100%
 
Road Trip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,160
Thanks: 64
Thanked 105 Times in 92 Posts
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
     
Garage
Sorry, I can not comment on what is typical, though wondering does it need to be tuned, plugs replaced, engine air cleaner replaced, etc?

2017 Mazda 3 GT hatch: Soul Red Metallic with Black interior, manual: Premium Equipment pkg, customized OEM Appearance Pkg; iActivSense Pkg, add'l OEM options.

Build Thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Road Trip is offline  
post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 11:22 AM
kms1990
Demon Spawn
Points: 4,921, Level: 44
Points: 4,921, Level: 44 Points: 4,921, Level: 44 Points: 4,921, Level: 44
Activity: 37%
Activity: 37% Activity: 37% Activity: 37%
 
kms1990's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: fort worth,tx
Posts: 627
Thanks: 10
Thanked 34 Times in 34 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
 
Garage
check for loose hoses and vacuum leaks, use dish soap and water in a spray bottle while the car is running and spray all the rubber hoses, if one bubbles, the spot it bubbles from is a vacuum leak, or you can use carb cleaner (make sure it says flammable on it, if not it wont work) and spray the hoses and if the engine revs when you spray a hose, the hose has a leak. I have the same car you do mine is a 2011 (your maybe a different year) but same engine, I have an automatic and it does feel sluggish when first accelerating as it is just stubborn to shift, the manuals obviously don't have this issue (I drove a few test driving, bought used had to settle for the auto because it was a great deal and in the best shape of all of them I was looking at) if you look near your throttle body on the drivers side of the engine (where the air intake hose meets the engine) you will see 2 hoses attached with square clips, the blue clip hose is a perfect one to do a seafoam treatment on, do this with a warmed up engine, what you do is take the hose off where it meets the engine (just slide the clip up and wiggle off its easy) then get you a 3/8th Inner Diameter hose about 1-2 foot long and slide it on the flange that the other hose came off, then start your car, it will idle bad don't worry about it, you created a vacuum leak but its not permanent get your bottle of seafoam and open it, and tilt it where the hose can barely suck fluid out of the can (the vacuum will pull it out at a slight tilt) you want to be sure its not just getting seafoam fluid it needs to suck some air to keep the engine running so don't dunk the hose in the can, let it suck 1/2-2/3 the can down then stop the car reconnect the disconnected hose and wait about 1-2 hours and go drive it hard, at first it will be hard to start as it tries to compress the seafoam trapped in the cylinders and it will put out a giant plume of white smoke from the exhaust, all normal the smoke will get less and less as you drive try to go above 45mph at a good pace and drive until the smoke stops, then drive more after to clear it all, pour the rest of the seafoam in your gas tank. this will vclean out any stubborn carbon build up and sludge holding the engine back, I do this every 10k miles and I get 30 US miles per US gallon regularly which is phenominal for this car which is only rated at 29 highway. and like you I drive 80mph+ on the freeway a lot and still get excellent mpg.

if it is an auto check the condition of the fluids if it is not light red-clear red and smells burnt then you will want to consult a trained good transmission shop as to how to proceed in changing the fluids, once they get black sludgy or burnt smelling there is internal damage to the transmission 9 out of 10 times because it was either not changed or over heated too many times (auto trannys in these models are known for this, so change your fluid every 15-30k in the tranny (its easy to do a drain and fill while doing the oil, the tranny drain pan is right behind the control arms) and has a drain plug which doing this gets about half the old fluid out so if you do it often you will have decently fresh fluid all the time. the transmissions are not bad they just run warm so they abuse the fluids, but mazda does not specify a change interval just if it looks bad change it which is stupid on an automatic 30-60k is the absolute max you want to run auto tranny fluid. if the transmission shop recommends fluid replacement have them drop the pan and replace the filter in the transmission while its there about 100k is good for tranny filter replacements if you keep the fluids good all the time. I changed my fluid when I bought the car it was at 61k miles (yours is 99k miles converting km to miles) and it does shift better afterwards, though it still needs prodding to downshift so I use manual mode a lot so I can get moving quicker then it wants to decide what to do. though sometimes it shifts great other times it doesn't want to down shift when I poke the gas pedal to get more power in passing situations or it upshifts too early and I am laboring the engine,just the nature of automatics they all do that (many newer ones like on the skyactiv models and newer cars are much faster and shift at better times but ours is still old fashioned, so its not having a problem just running on older tech) using manual mode allows you to keep it in the gear you want and shift when you know you need to.

is the check engine light on? if so have the codes read this will most likely point you in the right direction to look for the issue, if you get the codes read post the numbers back here so we can help you. usa obd2 codes read like p0301 which p0301 is a misfire on cylinder 1 you being in a km country (not stated where) the eobd or whatever is in your country may read different but still post them.

check the air intake hose for rips as this can cause sluggish performance as well, get some mass air flow cleaner and clean the mass airflow sensor per directions (DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING TO THE WIRES IN THE SENSOR OR IT WILL RUIN IT, JUST SPRAY THE SPRAY ON THEM) this is the sensor near your air filer between the air filter box and air intake hose. cant hurt to change the air filter while your at it as well.

use throttle body cleaner and clean the throttle body (take the air intake hose off the engine side and you will see a gold plate, push it open with your fingers, since we have electric throttle bodies you cant easily do it with the car running to open it up, and running the car with no air filter is horrible for it so don't try. spray a bunch in and let it sit a while then go drive again (it maybe hard to start on this again, its normal) at 99,000 miles your spark plus where do for replacement 25k miles ago so just change them even if your sure the last guy did, just do it, IT CANT HURT and helps eliminate one more thing. use NGK laser iridium plugs (they do cost a bit but are the oem plugs and the only ones gapped correctly for our cars) you need a socket wrench a medium length extension and a 5/8th spark plug socket to change them, oh and an 8mm socket to remove the coils and a 15mm socket to remove the plastic hold down things for the engine cover (they sit on top of the stud 2 of the coils use so they must be removed to do this) this link is to the plugs to use:ILTR 6A 8G / ILTR6A8G | 3787 (x4) / ILTR6A8G (x4) / ILTR 6A 8G (x4) | 3787 / 3787 | Set Of 4 Mazda Speed 3 6 Spark Plugs NGK Laser Iridium ILTR6A8G | New-Part.com

when you say your only getting 370km which approx. equals 229 miles out of a tank of gas, is this filling from when the gas light comes on to full then only 229 miles later the gas light is on again? or do you fill from about 1/4 tank? if at about a 1/4 tank this is close to normal I typically get 240-280 miles out of 3/4 a tank of gas but I do a lot of driving for my job and its mostly freeway cruising at 75-80mph (where 5th gear in the auto on the 2.5 is most fuel efficient) I average 26.2mpg since I bought the car but since doing the tune up and changing tires and a few other things I get 27-30 almost 31 average now. I drive probably 65-75% or more freeway or highway at constant speed a lot I your in town between red lights and stopping and going a lot the mpg in this car is horrible I get about 20-24mpg if I am in a city a lot (mpg is miles per gallon)

try all this stuff and see if it helps, none of it will hurt it can only help, and at worse you got a cleaner or newer part out of it. report back any check engine codes if you have any this can help us further assist.

and I don't know which octane method your county uses sounds like the opposite one the USA and most north America uses but use regular grade(look in your owners manual it should say which grade is recommended, here its 87 octane) fuel not premium, premium is harder to combust and does nothing to help our car (since the 2.5L has no turbo and is only moderate compression) using premium can actually lower your fuel economy noticeably I ran it in mine for a wile to see and it got 1-3mpg less each tank then on mid or regular grade in the usa the lowest common available is 87 octane mid grade is usually 89 and high is either 91 or 93 octane depending on where your at in the country

we use this method for octane here:Anti-Knock Index (AKI) or (R+M)/2 so (RON+MON)/2 just RON or:Research Octane Number (RON) is what most European pumps display. which gives a falsity that using 93 there is better than 93 here (as an example) Because of the 8 to 12 octane number difference between RON and MON, the AKI shown in Canada and the United States is 4 to 6 octane numbers lower than elsewhere in the world for the same fuel. This difference between RON and MON is known as the fuel's Sensitivity MON is: Motor Octane Number (MON) Use the grade specified by your manual you don't need to go higher there is no benefit more on octane ratings:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

so 87 grade gas here(recommended fuel for the 2.5l in the usa) is 93-95 grade in Europe. and if your country uses the RON rating only then you using 98 will net you lower mpg, you may not notice any difference but the car will as it tries to ignite the fuel/air mixture and has a harder time doing so, which results in higher los of energy converted to heat and a less efficient car. the difference in our 87 and 93 in these cars is noticeable but wont cause any major harm to the car if used, just mainly lower mpg because it has to work a bit harder and that working harder is way less efficient then not as it will heat up more and have to pump a bit more coolant and oil fast to keep cool and this will cause energy to be lost as heat and as mechanical losses as your pumps for the cooling and lubricating fluids will be working a tad harder.
btijet and Road Trip like this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Give into the Night"

Last edited by kms1990; 03-10-2017 at 11:38 AM.
kms1990 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to kms1990 For This Useful Post:
btijet (03-13-2017)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
btijet
Junior Member
Points: 386, Level: 7
Points: 386, Level: 7 Points: 386, Level: 7 Points: 386, Level: 7
Activity: 25%
Activity: 25% Activity: 25% Activity: 25%
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 10
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Road Trip View Post
Sorry, I can not comment on what is typical, though wondering does it need to be tuned, plugs replaced, engine air cleaner replaced, etc?

I've done plugs, air cleaner, still the same

Last edited by btijet; 03-13-2017 at 10:27 PM.
btijet is offline  
post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
btijet
Junior Member
Points: 386, Level: 7
Points: 386, Level: 7 Points: 386, Level: 7 Points: 386, Level: 7
Activity: 25%
Activity: 25% Activity: 25% Activity: 25%
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 10
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
 
@kms1990
My car is manual, no check engine lights, i was going to do a maf clean with maf cleaner (but honestly too scared to touch it, i did it on my other car and felt no difference, i've also read don't clean the maf unless your preoared to buy another as you will most likely damage it).

I will check vac hoses maybe one is leaking, i will report back.

Thanks for respone ��

Last edited by btijet; 03-13-2017 at 10:29 PM.
btijet is offline  
post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 09:53 AM
kms1990
Demon Spawn
Points: 4,921, Level: 44
Points: 4,921, Level: 44 Points: 4,921, Level: 44 Points: 4,921, Level: 44
Activity: 37%
Activity: 37% Activity: 37% Activity: 37%
 
kms1990's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: fort worth,tx
Posts: 627
Thanks: 10
Thanked 34 Times in 34 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by btijet View Post
@kms1990
My car is manual, no check engine lights, i was going to do a maf clean with maf cleaner (but honestly too scared to touch it, i did it on my other car and felt no difference, i've also read don't clean the maf unless your preoared to buy another as you will most likely damage it).

I will check vac hoses maybe one is leaking, i will report back.

Thanks for respone ��
don't be afraid of the maf cleaner, I do it every time I take my k and n off to clean (every 15k ish miles) just follow the instructions on the can you will be ok, you wont notice much difference if there is nothing dirty on the maf but boy will you if there is. here is my how to write up on the 2.3L motor for seafoaming HOW TO: seafoam your mazda 3 2.3L motor its very similar on the 2.5L except the clips on the hoses are different, where my finger is pointing to the red clip in the attached pic you need to pull the blue square clip but same sized hose and in the same spot, the blue square clip pulls up where the solid horizontal blue is and just slides up (does not come off) this allows the hose to be wiggled off, the rest is exactly the same. I would recommend this treatment as you may have some nasty build up bogging down your engine.

the people who say be prepared to buy a maf if you use maf cleaner on it don't know how to properly do it, you will be fine as long as you don't poke the wires with the straw or touch them with anything except the spray and follow instructions on the can. use it to clean your air intake too, clean the hose to the engine and the airbox it works wonders on them. if you spray some in the airbox you see how fast it dries and that it leaves no residue. check your vacuum hoses as well im thinking you either have a minor vacuum leak or carbon build up and need a deep seafom clean and tune up.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


"Give into the Night"
kms1990 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Tags
acceleration , moves , past , rpm , slow , spec

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the 2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome