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Old 08-07-2009, 11:33 PM
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Default First documented 2010 RSB install

For those who don't know, the rear sway bar (RSB) provides resistance when one wheel tries to move independant of the other. This provides better handling when cornering, reducing body roll. It also has a noticable impact on understeer (the tendency for the car to turn a little less than you tell it to).

No one has released a RSB for the 2010's yet, but I had someone check with Tri-Point Engineering and they said the aftermarket one they make for the 1st gen (04-09) bolted right up. So, I decided to take a chance and try a used Racing Beat RSB I was able to purchase on a forum. This was the first time I had ever worked on a RSB and I didn't have any instructions. Fun times! Lol. The install really wasn't bad at all. Honestly, I think it was easier than the horn upgrade. It did take a little longer, but some of that was me figuring things out. Total time was about 2 hours.

Results: Understeer is noticably lower and the car is flatter in the corners. It just feels more planted. Uneven roads aren't an issue and the ride isn't much harsher than stock, if at all. I am satisfied at this point, but we'll see how it holds up over time. I can not guarantee anything, so use at your own risk!

So, here's what we're looking at. The stock RSB is a little over 21mm.


The Racing Beat RSB is right at 27mm, a significant difference of 6mm over stock.


Here are all of the parts involved. The Racing Beat RSB is at the top and the stock RSB is below it. At the bottom left and right are the end links. They are what tie the ends of the RSB to the suspension arms. The 9/16" nuts and bolts that hold everything together are in the middle. You'll notice that the mount points are further out on the 2010. This isn't a huge deal, as you can slide the bushings out. It barely fits though and you don't get to use the "stoppers".


These are the tools and supplies needed to swap the RSB:
  • Breaker bar
  • open-end 9/16" wrench
  • socket wrench
  • socket wrench extender
  • 9/16" socket
  • 5mm allen wrench
  • rubber mallet
  • threadlocker (I like the blue)
  • grease (lithium or lithium-based)
Note: also pictured is a 1/2" to 3/8" socket adapter, but it's not necessary if your socket set and breaker bar use the same drive. Of course, you will also need a jack and jack stands. Wheel chaulks are recommended.


I was racing to get this done before the sun went down, so I didn't get install pics, but this should be enough if someone wants to try it:

RSB Removal
  1. Put the rear of the car up on jack stands.
  2. Locate the end links. Break the lower nut loose with the breaker bar and 9/16" socket.
  3. Using the socket wrench and 9/16" socket, loosen the nut on the bottom bolt until the bolt starts turning too.
  4. Insert the 5mm allen wrench and put the 9/16" open-end wrench on the nut. Hold the bolt with the allen wrench and turn the nut with the open-end wrench until it's off.
  5. Repeat on the other side.
  6. Locate the 4 bolts securing the two brackets in the middle of the RSB. Break them all loose with the breaker bar and 9/16" socket.
  7. Working from side to side, loosen the bolts until they're almost free. Support the RSB and remove the bolts. The RSB will be able to swing down, but it will still be supported by the end links (even though there are no nuts on them).
  8. Locate the top nut of one end link and break it free with the breaker bar and 9/16" socket.
  9. Using the socket wrench and 9/16" socket, loosen the nut until the bolt starts turning too.
  10. Insert the 5mm allen wrench and put the 9/16" open-end wrench on the nut. Hold the bolt with the allen wrench and turn the nut with the open-end wrench until it's off. Be careful, as the whole RSB will be free once the first end link is removed.
  11. Repeating this on the other side is not necessary, but go ahead if you prefer.

RSB Install
  • Installing the new RSB is pretty much the opposite of removing the stock RSB, so I won't repeat myself.
  • Before you start, grease the bushings. Use A LOT!
  • If you are installing a RSB designed for the 1st gen 3, you will notice that the mounting points are further out on the 2010. Move the bushing to the proper position and they should just bolt up.
  • Remember to use thread lock on all of the bolts before you start threading them in.
  • I recommend leaving everything fairly loose until all of the bolts are in and nuts are on. You may have to adjust the bar left or right with the rubber mallet. Once it's centered, go ahead and tighten everything up.
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:08 AM
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Good work man! I think you're pretty ballsy to be the first to try a 1st gen part on the new 3.

I have a few questions:
How much did you pay for the rsb?
What forum did you find it on?
How many miles were on the rsb from the previous owner?

Countdown until the wedding.
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSUBigMac View Post
Good work man! I think you're pretty ballsy to be the first to try a 1st gen part on the new 3.

I have a few questions:
How much did you pay for the rsb?
What forum did you find it on?
How many miles were on the rsb from the previous owner?
Thanks. I'm really tired of waiting for aftermarket stuff to come out!

You have questions, I have answers:
  • I paid $100 for the RSB. They are usually $155-160 new, so it wasn't a bad deal, imo.
  • Mazda3Forums. They have the best Mazda 3 for sale board I've found, but of course it's all 1st gen stuff. I'm sure this site will have a very active for sale board a year or so down the road.
  • I really don't know how many miles were put on the RSB, but they were probably pretty hard miles, lol. The previous owner has a 05 with a turbo kit that puts down 244whp...and he auto-crosses sometimes I'm using brand new Energy Suspension bushings with grease zerks though, so it's not a big deal. The bushings are the only parts that wear out.
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Old 08-08-2009, 02:47 AM
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does the sway bar make any noise while you're driving?
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Old 08-08-2009, 02:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaby_L View Post
does the sway bar make any noise while you're driving?
Not so far. That kind of thing usually happens with the bar is binding inside the bushing. I should be able to control that easily with the grease zerks and a grease gun. Plus, the grease I use is specially made to prevent binding.
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Old 08-08-2009, 10:39 AM
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This is a good thread. It should be stickied!

Countdown until the wedding.
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Old 08-08-2009, 04:42 PM
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Thanks guys

Btw, I noticed that I made a mistake. The nuts and bolts are 9/16", not 19mm. It's all corrected now. Sorry about that. I'll also get a pic of it installed sometime today.
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:58 PM
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Excellent post!
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Old 09-15-2009, 01:48 AM
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Nice job.
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Old 10-11-2009, 10:44 PM
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cool!

any new updates/report?

and, pictures of it installed??
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