DIY LED 3rd Brake Part 1

[Gunner]

Well gang here it finally is.

This will be broken into Part 1 and Part 2 do to the limitation 10,000 characters per post

I'll start with a list of things you'll need for this.

• 1 can of Krylon Fusion for plastics spray paint in Satin Black (24210)
• a hobby/xacto knife
• a small metal scale or plastic ruler
• a black fine point Sharpie with a good pointed tip
• a roll of electrical tape (won't see so color is no biggie)
• a roll of 3m double sided foam tape (1/2")-pick the best adhesion you can
• a roll of painter's tape (1")
• a precision/jewelers screwdriver (flat blade)
• a Dremel (or comparable brand) tool with the cut off disc and sanding barrel attachment
• a 2007 Mitsubishi Galant Ralliart LED high mount brake light part number MR971523
• last but not least, a helper will be needed to push the brake pedal for you on a couple of occasions

There are three basic areas to this install

1. Factory brake light removal
2. LED Pep
3. Modification and Install

I would reccomend reading through all the directions before you begin to help ease the process along.



Factory Brake Light Removal
The first thing you need to do is remove the plastic piece on the hatch covering the 3rd brake light. There are no screws, it is simply held in with plastic and metal retainers.



Pull up on the bottom corner of each side to release the 2 plasticc retainers. Then go to the center of the panel on the bottom edge and pull upwards with both hands. This will release the 2 metal retainers. A word of warning, there is quite a large noise that accompanies this action but I have done this several times with no problems. Below is what you will see.



Here is a close up of what the "legs" look like to see in advance what I am trying to describe in the step below.


Now you need to stick your index finger through the center hole between the two "legs" of the factory light assembly. Push downward on one of the curved "legs" while gently pulling out on the top of the assembly. Repeat on the other side. Once both "legs" are free the light assembly will roll out. There are indentations at the bottom to help lock the light in place.

With your light assembly free from the car remove the wires from the slot on the light assembly, remove the socket from the bucket by rotating it, and finally seperate the socket from the plug by depressing the lock and pulling them apart.


Separate the red plastic diffuser from the bucket by taking your precision/jeweler screwdriver and gently pry the reflector. Try not to rip/damage the felt surround as this helps against the dreaded rattle.


Set the white bucket off to the side and we'll get back to it. The diffuser and bulb/socket will not be used. You can pack the away with other original parts or simply round file it. Completly up to you!



LED Prep
The LED lamp's MSRP is $108.77, but I have good news. After a lot of online searching I located a site that is selling them for $78.31 plus $10.50 shipping. They are Genuine OEM Mitsubhsi Parts Catalog.
When the lamp arrives verify it matches the pictures above. I checked the part number against a VIN number with three dealers, but still it is better to be safe than sorry.

Before you do any modifications to the Mitsubishi LED, you need to insure it is in proper working order When we are done they won't recognize it anymore as a Mitsubishi part and you will not be able to return it. You need to take two small pieces of wire (jumpers), being sure not to let the bare wires touch one another, insert them in the plug of the new LED and attach one jumper to the positive terminal, the other to the negative. If the LED does not illuminate try switching leads. Make sure you have a working LED assembly before proceeding further.

The wires and spade connectors need to be removed from the plug on the LED. Take your precision/jeweler screwdriver and remove the brown clip at the end. Next take your precision/jewler screwdriver and insert it in the back of the plug at the top to release the lock for the spade connector and gently pull the respective wire out. This takes a bit of finesse and patients. If you have neither, you may try cutting away at the plug or trying to break the plug apart with pliers. I did not try this method, so I cannot guarantee success without damaging the wires or connectors.


Once they are free, slide the rubber bushing off and discard it. This is what you should have.


Now comes the point of no return. You need to take your Dremel tool with the cutoff wheel and remove the mounting tabs following the curvature of the lamp. Next , take your lamp and place it as so.


You will notice there is a ribbed area below the sealed area & the LED board. Below this is an indentation followed by clear plastic. You will need to use the cutoff wheel to remove the plastic below this line. Once you are finished, swap out the cutoff wheel with the barrel sander attachment and smooth out the sides and level off the ribbed part of the plastic. It should look like this.

[Gunner]

I resized the pics. I hope this help everyone!

[Derrick_B]

Originally Posted by Gunner

I resized the pics. I hope this help everyone!

100% better. Thanks!

[McGuyver_3]

nice job looks very sleek i have one in the making for the sedan but its a little different. When completed i hope to have 50 LED's in it haha. When i am finished i will post my findings for all to see