Manual Gear Shift Speeds? - Page 4 - 2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums
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post #31 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 08:23 PM
SirDuckferd
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Not going to question what JBR is saying since they're selling a product, but note:

-The "oil" that is left over on the intake manifold can be found in most engines. The kicker- most of it is volatiles, including water and gasoline from the blowby. If you leave it alone a few days, most of it evaporates
-The backside of the valves don't really show deposits. That's stuff left behind by gasoline (they should have also shown the intake port walls). Oil deposits actually look more gummy and is an actual buildup over time. Like this (maybe less severe):



-If the Mazda 3 actually did have a PCV oil consumption issue, it's going to be a lot of work to fix it. Back before 2012, you often find cars with fairly primitive oil separators. These are meant to knock out larger oil particles from air. Most simple catch cans work. However, Direct Injection has resulted in already better separation, and requires REALLY fine oil separation in catch cans to make a difference- mostly the filter/fiber type. You're mostly knocking out the volatiles and not the actual oil, otherwise. Check out their last picture of the separated components- and that's a picture from a Mazdaspeed 3, a much older engine without as efficient a PCV system, one that has more blowby due to the turbo, and requires a partial and full load PCV separator due to the boost.

The risk is that you're creating a restriction in your PCV system which will reduce the range of PCV operation (i.e. near WOT, when vacuum is lowest). And if the catch cans freeze in extreme cold, the PCV path becomes useless and leaves your fresh air line to take up PCV operation. And if that comparatively tiny tube freezes too, now you've just blown out your engine's main crank seal. If you really want it, fiber type catch cans (using nozzle + filter media) may work well, if you can keep them warm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphVa View Post
I seriously question the statements about the valves fouling up due to low speed service. More than likely, it's due to oil being sucked into the cylinders via the PCV valve.

If you use quality fuel from major brand gas stations, the fuel should keep your valves clean no matter how you drive. The majors all pass the extreme BMW cleanliness test.

I'd shift at those lower speeds mentioned in the owner's manual. You don't need the old 15, 25, 35, 45, 55 mph speeds that I've used for years on all our cars up to the Mazda3 sGT. It is so utterly smooth and strong that you can shift it at far lower speeds or at the 1750 rpm value I mentioned.

Ralph
Theoretically, running hotter or leaner can reduce valve deposits. The only thing is that the Skyactiv engine has intake variable cam phaser. So the engine is kind of already doing that work for you (still, try to run the engine until it's fully warm up at least).

You should just shift whenever you need to shift. High or low, don't be stingy with the engine power =P

Last edited by SirDuckferd; 02-23-2017 at 08:44 PM.
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post #32 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphVa View Post
I seriously question the statements about the valves fouling up due to low speed service. More than likely, it's due to oil being sucked into the cylinders via the PCV valve.

If you use quality fuel from major brand gas stations, the fuel should keep your valves clean no matter how you drive. The majors all pass the extreme BMW cleanliness test.

Question what you want, it is what it is. The SkyActiv is not the same as the motor in any of your other cars. You need to understand how this engine works. The fuel will not keep the valves clean. In fact, there is no fuel passing through the intake to clean the valves. The SkyActiv is a direct injection engine. The injector sprays the fuel directly into the compression chamber, completely bypassing the intake valve. So, whatever oil is sucked in by whatever means can stick to the valve and eventually form carbon deposits. This is what happens in other DI motors. Mazdas solution is to not run coolant passages near the intake valves, allowing them to run at 700 +. Ths is, coincidentally, just right for both burning off any oil without leaving carbon behind and for flaking off any carbon that may be there. If you don't run the engine up to temperature (not just coolant temp, the whole engine) you can get carbon buildup.
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post #33 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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I never thought my thread would cause so much discussion! Some posters adopt my leisurely driving style and others don't. The jury is out on whether the Skyactive engine can cope with short / low rpm trips that may cause valve clogging issues. I mentioned above that I do 300 mile motorway trips at 70 mph+ / 2500 rpm every 3 months. Is that sufficient to keep the engine clean despite my otherwise more leisurely driving style?
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post #34 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 10:48 AM
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If my wife has a problem with me revvin the pi55 out of my M3 at breakneck speeds, then I'll just tell her that I am just doing some prudent car maintenance!
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post #35 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc489 View Post
I never thought my thread would cause so much discussion! Some posters adopt my leisurely driving style and others don't. The jury is out on whether the Skyactive engine can cope with short / low rpm trips that may cause valve clogging issues. I mentioned above that I do 300 mile motorway trips at 70 mph+ / 2500 rpm every 3 months. Is that sufficient to keep the engine clean despite my otherwise more leisurely driving style?
As long as you get the valves up to proper operating temperature for a bit you should be ok.
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post #36 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arathol View Post
The SkyActiv is not the same as the motor in any of your other cars. Mazdas solution is to not run coolant passages near the intake valves, allowing them to run at 700 +. Ths is, coincidentally, just right for both burning off any oil without leaving carbon behind and for flaking off any carbon that may be there. If you don't run the engine up to temperature (not just coolant temp, the whole engine) you can get carbon buildup.
Thank you @arathol . Did not know anything about these unique Mazda technologies.

And as you noted, in spite of them, they are just mitigating factors and as always, compounded by DI motors, starting a car and doing a lazy, few mile drive to the store remains the worst culprit.

One of my cars has the ability to give me the real-time temperatures of about ten different systems, and it initially amazed me that even on a 70 degree day, it will take about a 7 mile drive until the last of them is up to full operating temperature (close to a 15 mile drive on a very cold day).

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Last edited by Road Trip; 02-24-2017 at 01:34 PM.
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post #37 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-25-2017, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dradernh View Post
Good points being made here by all. I can assure you that I learned how not to lug a motor when learning to drive, and I agree it's a really bad idea. So I don't do it, and I'll wager that @sc489 doesn't lug his motor either.

I'd like to share this gearing chart with the group (note that the circumference of the snow tire in this chart is the same as the OEM all-season Dunlop that came on the car when new). For those who have never tried it, try shifting into 5th or 6th gear on a level surface at what seems like an impossibly low rpm, gently increase throttle pressure, and see what happens. Even if you choose not to drive that way normally, you might be surprised at how flexible this motor is. Of course, your daily routes and traffic have a lot to do with the rpm at which you drive - I live in a semi-rural area and generally have full control over how I drive the car.



While the MZ3 is a fun car, and I do drive it on occasion the way you and @LindaMc62 describe, it's the wife's DD and I'm generally using it as a transport module. Because I've always enjoyed bikes and cars designed to be driven fast, I bought and upgraded the one below. The MZ3, as nice as it is and as much as I fully appreciate its capabilities, isn't something I'm ever going to feel like flogging on public roads. In fact, he's a pretty tame little guy when you get right down to it.
That's a LOT of forum post for a joke!
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post #38 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-25-2017, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
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That's a LOT of forum post for a joke!
I'm glad you got the joke.

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Last edited by dradernh; 02-25-2017 at 10:00 AM.
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