Review and How-To Install HID Lights from TRS - 2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
sxwong
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Review and How-To Install HID Lights from TRS

It took me roughly 5-6 hours to install these lights, mostly because Iíve learned that I am not handy at all and the instructions werenít at all clear-cut enough more or less any instructions for a DIY noob + I didnít understand the diagram at first glimpse and was just like ďIíll figure this out by plugging and hoping it worksĒ. Nevertheless, I figured it out through hours of frustration. Make sure you have enough light though; working at 1am with a bicycle flashlight isnít very ideal. A lot of what goes on is figuring out where the wires go and where to connect the grounds.

I also installed the Corksport SRI so.. there was a lot more room in the engine bay to wiggle around with the air box gone.

I forgot to take pictures after taking the unboxing pictures, so Iíll mostly refer to @louis110 and @Jaxxun pictures they provided. There are a lot of good pictures around the forum, so do a quick search on louis110 or Jaxxun or just HID install. Figured I'd just compile some of them here and I guess if other people can post where they ended up mounting their ballasts, that'd be cool. I think there was another user that posted pictures on the install but I couldnít find them.

Jaxxunís Installation
8000k 55w HID Install, w/ Pics

Forgive my crude terminology on everything. Hopefully this helps some people in their instructions search process and gives them a little more confidence in the installation since the only useful instructions TRS provided were the diagrams.

Tools:
  • Small Wrench that will fit the nut TRS provides or maybe a ratchet set if you need it (not necessary) - Not sure about the wrench size
  • Philips Head Screw Drivers (1 x larger and 1 x small) Ė just in case you need it
  • Small Flathead Screwdriver - Not necessary, just used it to get front bumper pins off
  • Zip-Ties (4Ē ones should be fine)
  • Extra nuts and bolts (preferably the same size as the ones you get with the kit)
  • Plastic/Latex gloves if you need them

The Kit:
Diagram:


Iíll be referring to these terms throughout the guide. Passenger wire from the relay is the one longer output/ground wire.

Unboxing:
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Instructions:
1. I partially removed my bumper during this installation so I could have more room to work with (partially, meaning I couldnít get two tabs to pop up on the inside bottom of the bumper so It was leaning at a 45 degree angle outwards). Removing the bumper isnít necessary but gives you A LOT more flexibility to move around. This is what it looks like without the bumper from louis110.
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2. If you donít remove the bumper, turn the steering wheel so the front wheel faces into the car to access respective wheel well (pic below) and just pop the 4 tabs on the wheel well liner up with the small flathead and pull the liner. Also, refer to Jaxxunís post (8000k 55w HID Install, w/ Pics) for those that donít want to remove the bumper.
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3. Should you need to remove the airbox, you can follow Corksportís instruction or the service manual to remove. Itís not bad. (http://support.corksport.com/instruc...-6-117-WEB.pdf)

4. What I did first was find a place for the relay harness to mount on the driverís side. I mounted the relay harness exactly how louis110 did and then the ballast in the hole right below it.
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5. Then I fished the 12V wire following the other wires up to the battery Ď+í terminal. Open up the Ď+í terminal cover and connect the 12V connection to the far left spot securing it with a hex nut. After you do this, you can put the cover back on.
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6. Now going back to the relay, connect the driverís side output into the ballast input and secure the output ground wire as shown. In my case, I couldnít free the bolt where itís connected in the picture below so I secured the ground to one of holes in the frame with an extra nut and bolt.
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7. Remove the headlight bulb by turning it left and pull. Remove the halogen bulb then connect the ballast output into the bulb input and insert bulb into the headlight socket and turn right to lock. Also, make sure you remove the HID capsule from the HID so you can plug it in and to not touch the bulb.
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8. Take the OEM connector you disconnected from the driverís side bulb and connect that to the ďInput from CarĒ.

9. Now you want to take the long output/ground wire and figure how you want to bring it to the passenger side. I think you can follow the fat wire in the picture below. I just fished it along the bottom to the other side. Thereís a nice grounding point on the car frame behind the washer bottle. Itís a squeeze for your hand to secure it with a nut and bolt though.
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10. You can secure the ballasts either way. I did it like so in the first picture from Jaxxun. The bolt TRS provides will fit perfectly in the hole, so you just screw it down. Louis110 did it another way in the second picture.
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11. Take out the passenger side halogen the same way you took out the driverís side. Then connect the passenger side output to the ballast input and ballast output to the bulb. Put the bulb into the headlight socket and lock. OEM connector would be left alone. Basically a rinse and repeat except that you leave the OEM connector alone.

12. Try firing up the lights. If the passenger side doesnít work in step 11, try connecting the OEM connector to the ballast input orÖ make sure all the connections are mated correctly together.

13. Zip tie accordingly if you want. Not a great picture but comparing the halogens and HID 35W, it's like night and day. Cutoff is sharp.
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Notes:
  • For some reason, my passenger side ended up being a plug and play? (OEM connector → Ballast → Bulb). I havenít tried the driverís side yet but Iím guessing you donít necessarily need the relay?


Review:
Overall, I am extremely satisfied with this kit. Despite the hours of frustration trying to figure out how things worked, the $170 was well justified for this kit when you turn on your lights. Definitely like a night and day difference compared to the stock halogens. Minus the instructions, I'd definitely go back to them in the future.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014, 03:54 PM
Timko
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Nice guide man. I'm actually taking it one step further and retrofitting the projectors into my car, but it's nice to know what specs I'm looking at in terms of bulbs and ballasts. Now just need to decide on a projector...
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014, 07:36 PM
louis110
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Nice write up! Glad I could help you with your install.

'93 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR | '14 Mazda 3 Sport GS
Custom red leather interior, Hella horns, alloy pedals, Nokya Hyper Yellow DRLs, 5K Morimoto XB HIDs, VLED 5K LEDs, Cree 6K reverse lights, taillight/reflector overlays, chrome turn signals, EuroTek UO3 19x8.5+45 on Ohtsu FP8000 235/35R19, Muteki red lugs, Rally Armor flaps, EZ Lip, Eibach Pro Kit
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 04:09 AM
Campagnolo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sxwong View Post
I

Notes:
  • For some reason, my passenger side ended up being a plug and play? (OEM connector → Ballast → Bulb). I havenít tried the driverís side yet but Iím guessing you donít necessarily need the relay?


Review:
Overall, I am extremely satisfied with this kit. Despite the hours of frustration trying to figure out how things worked, the $170 was well justified for this kit when you turn on your lights. Definitely like a night and day difference compared to the stock halogens. Minus the instructions, I'd definitely go back to them in the future.
Good write up, man. Think you'll test if it truly is plug and play? Essentially that would make this process easier by a ton, right?
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Campagnolo View Post
Good write up, man. Think you'll test if it truly is plug and play? Essentially that would make this process easier by a ton, right?
Most of the time the ballasts will work without the relay harness. However, the voltage going to the stock lights can fluctuate causing flickering, colour change, or even the ballast to turn off. Using the relay harness lets the ballasts get a constant source of power.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
sxwong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Campagnolo View Post
Good write up, man. Think you'll test if it truly is plug and play? Essentially that would make this process easier by a ton, right?
Right now my passenger side HID is set up as a plug-and-play (OEM > Ballast > Bulb). It would make the process a lot easier since you would be routing less wires. Haven't noticed any flickering yet, maybe later down the road.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-01-2014, 11:42 AM
gburgers14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timko View Post
Nice guide man. I'm actually taking it one step further and retrofitting the projectors into my car, but it's nice to know what specs I'm looking at in terms of bulbs and ballasts. Now just need to decide on a projector...
Why would you need to retrofit projectors? the car comes with projectors doesn't it?
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-01-2014, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gburgers14 View Post
Why would you need to retrofit projectors? the car comes with projectors doesn't it?
Projectors for HIDs and halogens are radically different. Just to mention a few: focal distance of the arc of light on HID vs. focal distance of light on filament on halogens. Squirrel finders. Shields.....

The halogen projectors can handle a HID bulb quite well, but the headlights themselves were not designed for them.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-02-2014, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quelonio View Post
Projectors for HIDs and halogens are radically different. Just to mention a few: focal distance of the arc of light on HID vs. focal distance of light on filament on halogens. Squirrel finders. Shields.....

The halogen projectors can handle a HID bulb quite well, but the headlights themselves were not designed for them.
Thank you. So when I convert to HID it shouldn't have any issues? I just want to be brighter and a little more focused.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gburgers14 View Post
Thank you. So when I convert to HID it shouldn't have any issues? I just want to be brighter and a little more focused.
I was so disappointed with the stock halogen light output that I tried a HID kit. I used the Morimotos described on this thread with 4300ļK bulbs. Bulb temp is a matter of personal preference. I can tell you that I'm very pleased with the light output that those bulbs produce. Sure, its not perfect since the projectors are designed for halogen bulbs but overall it was a huge improvement. I'd recommend it if you are thinking about trying some HIDs.

BTW, I did not use the relay. So far no problems at all.
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