Extremely Notchy Gearbox Fix (2->3 and 4->5) - Page 16 - 2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums
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post #151 of 163 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 01:27 PM
Peterpause
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I doubt the problem arose from my driving habits, as I've been successfully driving sticks for 40+ years. Although after the problem got worse I did find myself sometimes going through shifting sequences without fully releasing the pedal, since that decreased the chances of popping out of gear when I needed rapid acceleration. I had been wondering if the clutch needed re-bleeding ever since they replaced both cylinders 4K miles ago; it felt like disengagement wasn't beginning until about half-way down. But since I got the car back yesterday the free play feels pretty much the same (and the tech report states that they felt the clutch was functioning properly). Shifting is noticeably smoother, less notchy, and I haven't been blocked out yet, or popped out of gear. I do wonder if re-doing the gearbox bulletin fix would smooth things out more (i.e., could the new cylinders and tranny overhaul have uncalibrated the box again?).

They tell me they think the new synchros have been updated from the ones known to wear early. Does that mean the non-replaced synchros will go bad early? Mazda says, nah, they've mainly been a problem just with 3rd and 4th.

FYI, here's the service report from diagnosis and repair:
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On test drive tech found hard shift into 3rd, 4th, 5th gears with a bad vibration in shifter in 4th. Tech performed transmission overhaul, replaced 3rd and 4th gears, synchros, and hubs. Also 5th and 6th hubs, retainers, and end bearing. Performed alignment and test drive, no faults found.
Thanks for the tip re tranny fluid. Will look into it. The Mazda invoice lists the fluid they used as "5W80-QT 75W80 Man. Transaxle fluid."
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post #152 of 163 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 04:04 PM
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My '15 s GT is at the dealer ship having a similar repiar done. I am really dissappointed with thise vehicle. I may move on. FWIW the service advisor claims mazda has a TSB out for this issue......

poor gas mileage gets you to the best places on earth

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post #153 of 163 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 03:14 AM
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Hmm. Wonder if its too late to have my dealer take a look. Mine is a early-14 and I've noticed its a little harder to get into gear sometimes (4th is a tough one especially). Test drove a '14 m6 as well and didn't have that issue. Knowing my dealer they won't do jack but I guess its worth a try.
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post #154 of 163 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 10:41 AM
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My '15 s GT is at the dealer ship having a similar repiar done. I am really dissappointed with thise vehicle. I may move on. FWIW the service advisor claims mazda has a TSB out for this issue......
A word of advice... None manufacturer is immune to these things. Ok, maybe Toyota or Honda in general, but you wouldn't buy those in the first place I guess. I would always try to fix the car, especially when there is a TSB for it. And after some time you might end up with a satisfying vehicle. I know it is PITA but if you switch to something else you might be setting yourself for the same s*** all over again.

Check out german manufacturers' issues. It is a horror. Imagine paying 3 times more for a Mercedes and your automatic transmission doesn't work properly. That's how I'm looking at it.
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post #155 of 163 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 01:35 PM
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A word of advice... None manufacturer is immune to these things. Ok, maybe Toyota or Honda in general, but you wouldn't buy those in the first place I guess. I would always try to fix the car, especially when there is a TSB for it. And after some time you might end up with a satisfying vehicle. I know it is PITA but if you switch to something else you might be setting yourself for the same s*** all over again.

Check out german manufacturers' issues. It is a horror. Imagine paying 3 times more for a Mercedes and your automatic transmission doesn't work properly. That's how I'm looking at it.
I am consistently disappointed with how poorly new vehicles are made and how extremely pathetic the service departments in dealerships are. Service advisors are about as useful as tits on a bull, yeah they can sell a lot of BG44k and tire rotations but they never actually provide any useful information.

I should be getting my Mazda back tomorrow, will be interesting to see how much is screwed up. I imagine bolts and covers will be missing from the transmission removal, probably a few new scratches and greasy finger prints on my steering wheel.

I went round and round with the service department at the Subaru dealership when warranty work was performed on my wifes Subaru. I have done a fair amount of mechanical work over the years, I have always let vehicles in a much better state when i am done. Subaru made a huge mess of my engine compartment and very clearly didnt use fender covers during repairs. I am hoping my experience with this Mazda repair will be satisfactory. Being a car person I notice everything especially since I have spent so much time detailing and working on my Mazda. I really love driving this car, it handles well the 2.5 leaves me smiling. Fuel consumption is far and above what I expected it would be, lastly its just a damn good looking car. I will report back with my findings..

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post #156 of 163 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 10:00 AM
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Strange why so many of you are having an issue with your transmissions. I have an early 2014 model and although it does get notchy sometimes and I get the occasional 4th gear hesitation, the tranny is smooth and works perfectly. In my defense though, I have been replacing the transmission fluid since like 5k miles and every 15-20k since then. Probably did like 3 flushes already just to keep things clean and smooth. Currently due for another flush... already have two bottles of OEM Mazda lube ready.

Mine has the Corksport short shifter, upgraded engine torque mount, tuned via OV to my specification with higher rev limit, intake, exhaust, lowered and both me and wifey drive it like a rental.

Wondering if I should put it back to stock and bring it in to get the tranny "upgraded" with the new hopefully redesigned syncros while I still can... hmmmm
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post #157 of 163 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 01:22 AM
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Did you note any differences between the stock and after putting the new mount and the short shifter?
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post #158 of 163 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 01:38 AM
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Are you kidding me? By far the best driveability improvement mods I've done, not counting the tune. Engine mount stopped excessive engine movement in between shifts. This also stopped the engine from pulling on the shifter cables, making it shift smoother and more precise. Short shifter made it all firmer and more precise to get into gear. I Love it and wouldn't have it any other way. Recently stopped by the dealership to get parts and checked out a stock M3 in the showroom. It's shocking how sloppy the stock shifter feels in comparison.

The only side effect of the stiffer engine mount is increased vibrations due to the extremely low idling characteristics of the Skyactiv engine. I solved this problem by having OV set my idle @ 1,000rpm. Purrs like a kitten with the exhaust and I feel absolutely zero vibrations from the engine, especially when the AC clutch cycles on / off.

Having the engine idle higher also makes it much easier to take off from a stand still since the engine is making more power at idle.

These three mods made my Mazda 3 feel solid and race car like yet still completely civilized on the street for daily use. I recommend all three if you're looking to improve on the awesome driving feel that Mazda already put into the M3 from birth.
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post #159 of 163 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 10:01 AM
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Engine mount stopped excessive engine movement in between shifts. This also stopped the engine from pulling on the shifter cables, making it shift smoother and more precise. Short shifter made it all firmer and more precise to get into gear.
That's what I would've guessed... Just wanted someone to confirm I've been seriously thinking about it for a while and I think I'll do it. Cheers!
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post #160 of 163 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 10:20 AM
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I tried the JBR rear torque mount when they first came out and it was unbarable. Engine vibrations were so harsh that interior panels were rattling loose. It was returned promptly. They labeled it as street use stiffness but it was clearly TRACK ONLY.

Either that or like I said, my engine was idling at 500-550rpm causing serious vibrations even stock.

I then went and injected the OEM mount with 3M window weld poly. I did this on two previous cars and loved it so did the same on the M3. Been driving with it ever since, so probably a good 40k Miles of abuse on it now and still nice and stiff.

I plan to upgrade to the CorkSport mount, since I now want it even stiffer due to pulling down more power and since the engine is tuned and idles at a steady 1k rpm now, I have no worries for engine vibrations and can even get a racing mount and probably won't feel it.

I wouldn't mind sending you my injected OEM mount so you can see how it feels to have the engine move less between shifts. For $25 worth of 3M poly at autozone, it's an extremely cheap way of upgrading the OEM mount. And since you have control over how much poly to inject, you can techincally work out how much is too much and get it just right... not to stiff yet hold the engine in place better then stock.

If your car isn't suffering from excessively low idling, getting a nice street mount won't be killer for you but if it will be vibrating too much even after it's well broken in after a few weeks, your answer is a tune and up the idle to where the engine won't be vibrating at all. I could have gone with like 850-900 or so rpm but choose 1k because it reminds me of my s2000 back in the day. Like I said, launching the car is much easier.

Tuning also has the benefit of more power and benefiting from any other mods you may have done like intake / exhaust / 93 octane or even e85 if you want.

I Love my Lil Zoom Zoom M3 if you can't tell. Hahahaha.
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2&gt3 , 2>3 , 4>5 , extremely , fix , gearbox , notchy

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