Here's some before and after pics. The idea is strait forward. You can vary the length of the arms to change the camber. Installation on the driver side is easy. Access to the bolts are easy to get to. The passenger side is a total nightmare. There is a five sided steel box that houses some kind of fuel sensor. I believe it has something to do with whether the fuel cap is screwed on correctly. It also protects the fuel fill line from road debris and in the event you have a rear end collision. It blocks one of the bolts you need to remove from the camber arm. It can't be bent out of the way. The only option is to loosen it's 10mm mounting bolt. Problem is that it was installed to the top of the frame rail before the body was lowered onto the car at the factory. Access is so limited that you can only get one finger on the bolt. Took me over three hours with an open ended wrench just to loosen it up enough to move the box out of the way. If you take the bolt out completely there is now way you would be able to thread it back in. Just have keep loosening it one turn at a time to see if the camber bolt clears the box. I don't really notice any better handling but the rear of the car is deffinately softer over bumps. I think it's because the weight is spread out over then entire width of the tire instead of the inner sidewall bearing all the load. Before I could only run approx 32-33 psi in the rear before it felt rough now I've got the rear up to 35psi and it still feels soft. You can see in the before pic that only half of the outer tread is being used and in the after pic the whole outer tread is being used. It should help with tire wear! Camber before: -2.5 Camber after: -1.4 EDIT:2/24/10 Finally have settled on -1.7 as -1.4 is great around town but just to unstable at hwy speeds -1.7 is a good compromise for both.