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post #21 of 159 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 01:04 AM
color0
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I can't see how going remote is a good idea on this car. Remotes are typically OK if you have a big engine (IS-F, LSx, 5-0) when you're pushing enough gas out the back that the exhaust tubing is pretty much pressurized at idle. You're trying to do the same with an engine literally half the displacement, the turbo lag isn't going to be insignificant.

Given how much more room you have for the OEM exhaust manifold I don't get why you wouldn't cut it up and route the tubes into a 4-1 collector with a small turbo there. The entire setup will take up less space than the OEM manifold itself and all you need to do is route the boost pipe under the oil pan to get it to the intercooler.


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post #22 of 159 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by color0 View Post
I can't see how going remote is a good idea on this car. Remotes are typically OK if you have a big engine (IS-F, LSx, 5-0) when you're pushing enough gas out the back that the exhaust tubing is pretty much pressurized at idle. You're trying to do the same with an engine literally half the displacement, the turbo lag isn't going to be insignificant.

Given how much more room you have for the OEM exhaust manifold I don't get why you wouldn't cut it up and route the tubes into a 4-1 collector with a small turbo there. The entire setup will take up less space than the OEM manifold itself and all you need to do is route the boost pipe under the oil pan to get it to the intercooler.
+1, you run into a lot more issues with back mount turbos too. Longer oil lines, vac lines, etc... You'll need small piping to the turbo then large piping after or you'll experience a good amount of turbo lag.


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post #23 of 159 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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I wont have any vac lines going to the rear, wg is internal bov is front. Oil line and maf will be rear located, seen a couple examples of low displacement remotes like a miata with 15 psi. Plus the manifold was proving to be more time, $ and error because of the location and difficulty in removing it (awd). I had to disassemble the turbo just to get it back there, and even with a smaller one (I was suggested a ko4 type which actually would have been a better physical fit for either set up) the piping would be very tight. Remotely, technically once the turbo is placed by a shop and a few thing are welded ( t3 flange to pipe, recirc flange probably an exhaust hanger bung I could test everything with pipes and couplers ( I don't weld but the $150 elder at harbor freight was tempting, I just don't want cracks). +iat, turbo inlet and engine bay temps will be lower..not interested in running water /meth. More systems to monitor and maintain imo.


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Last edited by chris_top_her; 10-14-2015 at 11:33 AM.
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post #24 of 159 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Ghetto set up but


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post #25 of 159 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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I think i'm going to pick up a stick welder and see how well I can do and decide if I want to weld it myself. I have the tools to cut the metal already.


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post #26 of 159 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_top_her View Post
I think i'm going to pick up a stick welder and see how well I can do and decide if I want to weld it myself. I have the tools to cut the metal already.
SMAW on thin pipes is not easy, even more of a pain in the ass on stainless.

good luck

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post #27 of 159 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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moved to first post


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Last edited by chris_top_her; 10-14-2015 at 08:08 PM.
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post #28 of 159 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 03:03 PM
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post #29 of 159 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_top_her View Post
I wont have any vac lines going to the rear, wg is internal bov is front. Oil line and maf will be rear located, seen a couple examples of low displacement remotes like a miata with 15 psi. Plus the manifold was proving to be more time, $ and error because of the location and difficulty in removing it (awd). I had to disassemble the turbo just to get it back there, and even with a smaller one (I was suggested a ko4 type which actually would have been a better physical fit for either set up) the piping would be very tight. Remotely, technically once the turbo is placed by a shop and a few thing are welded ( t3 flange to pipe, recirc flange probably an exhaust hanger bung I could test everything with pipes and couplers ( I don't weld but the $150 elder at harbor freight was tempting, I just don't want cracks). +iat, turbo inlet and engine bay temps will be lower..not interested in running water /meth. More systems to monitor and maintain imo.
I have little experience with mounting turbo's so mostly my suggestion's are to work out what would be the best process and end product cause I think this thing would be fuckin' awesome once you finish it off.

Seems like Color0's suggestions make a lot of sense. I get that you want the instillation to be as easy as possible, but done right>done twice.

As far as the space constraints go, you're probably working on a tight timeline and don't want to undo motor mounts and things to get more space just for fitting but if you check out this turbo instillation in a mazda 5 (I know but seriously). This is a surprisingly good resource for walking through a turbo instillation. He gets this done in a weekend it seems, leaves it mostly no boost for a bit then gets the tune done over the course of a few weeks.

To get more room around the heat shield he hinges the motor up unhooking a motor mounts and moving things out of the way.

Just some food for thought
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post #30 of 159 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sin_loki View Post
SMAW on thin pipes is not easy, even more of a pain in the ass on stainless.

good luck
Yea, that's what I've been reading.


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