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post #11 of 691 (permalink) Old 04-30-2013, 06:07 AM
Oliverms3
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Originally Posted by DomTheGhost View Post
I think you just need smaller sidewall tires and/or raise your car up a bit.
I played around with the setting earlier... I increased the rebound and it helped the front not to smash on my fender. As for the rear i also increased the rebound and it definitely made a difference, but the rear passenger side needs to camber in a lil bit


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post #12 of 691 (permalink) Old 04-30-2013, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
color0
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I've got phone books and a good knife at work, Oliver... I need to fix my own fender liners too anyways!


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post #13 of 691 (permalink) Old 04-30-2013, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by color0 View Post
I've got phone books and a good knife at work, Oliver... I need to fix my own fender liners too anyways!
Lol.. Theyre pretty much gone since the last setup i had


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DDM 55w 5000k HIDs and DDM 35w 3000k HID fogs, COBB shifter weight, BC Coilovers w/ Eibach rear Camber Kit, 18x8 +35 RPF1 245/40 re760 Potenza, HKS TT Type 0.


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post #14 of 691 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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Short update, before I went on a canyon run I snapped a pic of my average mpg "sans canyons".



As you might infer from the average speed, the car drives a good bit of highway miles compared to city. I'd say it's typically equal time city/highway, but about 5:1 highway to city miles. I'm only achieving 32mpg by babying the car around town, if I don't baby it at all I drop to about 30mpg. Nonetheless, not bad considering the amount of tire this car has to push.

Also, an easter egg. For whatever reason I can't scan the code, but it's found in the engine bay.




I've ordered a Tri-Point rear sway to replace the Corksport item -- apparently the CS bar is just too soft for the grip and driving style I have. If you follow CS's product specs, their bar is 114% or 180% stiffer than stock, which come out to 492 and 644 lbs/in respectively; the Tri-Point bar goes to 750, 825 or 1000. From experience, the 644 setting was not quite enough, I could get good rotation off-power but on-power the car would still push if I was going fast enough. I'd like to start tuning that out now that I'm used to driving the car, so 750 should be a good starting point to tweak the balance just a little bit. For those of you following my tuning experiments, keep in mind that you will most likely want to soften the rear damping after a change like this to prevent the rear from unloading too fast when braking. I have the setting at 14F/18R right now, it dampens out my entry "twitch" steering so I expect it to play well with the new sway bar.


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post #15 of 691 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 04:24 AM
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Yay for more oversteer! If you want you can borrow my ultragauge for a canyon run. It can log per-trip mpgs.


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post #16 of 691 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 12:59 AM
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Nice write up. I see what you mean by thin barrels on rpf1's now. Theres not much material there lol
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post #17 of 691 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
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There isn't lol. That's how they're so light for "cast" wheels. If you get these in a narrow 16" or 17" size they really are the ultimate fuel/cash economy wheel.

Tri-Point rear sway has arrived, sans retaining collars... the owners manual states that the Gen 2 cars don't need them. I'll test out that claim tomorrow.


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post #18 of 691 (permalink) Old 05-09-2013, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Gonna get this one out of the way before I forget everything tonight -- serious warning below.


The Tri-Point sway has extremely good build quality and bolted on in less than half an hour, as expected. The brackets line up with the inner edge of the swaybar "leaves" so that's why you don't need the retaining collars (learn something new every day!). I greased up the bushings nice and thin and everything seemed to be OK installation-wise. No creaks, squeaks or telltale rattles either.

Driving wise is a bit of a mixed bag. Keep in mind that everything I say after this sentence is heavily dependent on individual car setup and driver skill. I noticed immediately that the extra stiffness of the Tri-Point sway makes lift-off oversteer more accessible, and on smoother corners I had no problem modulating the rear end of the car mid-corner using just throttle inputs. Feels nice. However, what I also noticed was that the car became very sensitive to bumps: hit one the wrong way and the rear will snap oversteer instantly. I got no warning from the tires, the rear just let go on me, once going uphill in a tight right and once more going downhill in a medium left. Given that the car behaved consistently in smooth turns, I have no reason to suspect tweak or loose bolts. I'm thinking I just went too stiff.

The on-brakes behavior of this car now is also dangerous for me. With the Corksport 24mm bar, I had the fortune and luxury of being able to brake sideways, where I could hit the brake, and without changing the steering angle much, the car would slide while slowing down, and would not rotate more or less while doing so. This no longer seems to be the case with the Tri-Point bar installed. When sideways on the brakes it always feels like the car wants to rotate more, and eventually wants to point towards the cliff. I spun out twice in an hour tonight, because this over-rotation forces you to countersteer to get away from the wall, but then as you do so, the rear naturally comes back into line and fishtails you the other way. With the CS sway bar (and everything else identical) the car rotates slower, and I end up "only" facing the exit of the corner by the time I reach the apex and I can then floor the gas to exit the corner.

The Tri-Point bar does make the car rotate better in off- and partial-throttle situations mid-corner, and I suspect it would be faster on a racetrack where a car like mine would spend the better part of its life modulating the tires without needing the brakes. But in the mountains, I've lost the ability to slide on the brakes safely and I don't feel confident driving a car that wants to over-rotate all the time. I'll be faster if I can brake later and harder without sending the rear end out so fast. So it comes as a surprise to me for sure, but I don't think I can use this rear sway bar.

The Tri-Point RSB willl be up in the For Sale section tomorrow, with less than 5 hours of driven time in the car. If you have BC coilovers with 8k/6k spring rates, don't say I didn't warn you. The Tri-Point RSB could be too much for a canyon/tarmac rally application.


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Last edited by color0; 05-09-2013 at 08:12 AM.
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post #19 of 691 (permalink) Old 05-09-2013, 10:42 AM
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Go with JBR's? Which setting were you on?


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^^^My build thread^^^
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post #20 of 691 (permalink) Old 05-09-2013, 11:06 AM
Oliverms3
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Oh damn... I wish i was at the crest witb you guys last night!!. Does the tri-point rsb has different settings?


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DDM 55w 5000k HIDs and DDM 35w 3000k HID fogs, COBB shifter weight, BC Coilovers w/ Eibach rear Camber Kit, 18x8 +35 RPF1 245/40 re760 Potenza, HKS TT Type 0.


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