Please help me upgrade my 2010 MS3

MysticTim · Nov 17, 2011

Been a long time reader of the forums and thought it was about time to jump into things.

Here's the deal, my 2010 Mazdaspeed3 is just about to roll over 36,000 miles and it is time to start upgrading.

Here's what I have so far on the purchase item list:
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CORKSPORT Power Series Short Ram Intake 2010+ Mazdaspeed 3

CORKSPORT 2010+ Mazdaspeed 3 Cat Back Exhaust

CORKSPORT 2010+ Mazdaspeed 3 FMIC kit for Short Ram Intake (Do I need to add a CorkSport intake?)

COBB Tuning MAZDASPEED 3 Access Port Tuner

Told I also needed to upgrade my fuel pump but I am clueless as to what I should get.
---

That's what I have so far, I am very aware of my newness to all this and readily concede I don't really have a clue as to what I am doing. I would appreciate any help in telling me exactly what I need to improve my car. The only things I care about are acceleration, handling, and speed; aesthetics really don't concern me. Thanks all.

warlord · Nov 17, 2011

Below is a link to where you can buy Autotech fuel pump internals to upgrade your HPFP. Autotechs are the best intenals you can buy and JP at Edgeautosports has the best price. I have Autotech's installed for over ten k miles now and they work flawlessly. There are how-to threads on MSF.org that will get you through the install. It's not that hard. Also look into getting a downpipe to replace the stock one. A downpipe unlocks a lot of power. My cp-e catted downpipe sounds great (deep tone and not too loud). The power improvement and driveability increased ten fold.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f539/autotech-internals-stock-91621/

ZPrice · Nov 17, 2011

The following is probably a logical order, I am sure some would switch a few things around. I did not address eye candy and fluids.
Intake
RMM
RSB
Plugs
Fuel Pump
AP/ATR
Exhaust
IC upgrade
Other Suspension
SMM
There are some others mixed in but this should be the major items.

Z

tweak120 · Nov 18, 2011

You may want to also check out CP-E for performance upgrades... I use them and so dose Warlord.

I'm installing Autotech Internals this weekend and then getting an AP for Stage 2 tuning.

Good Luck :yes:

unk:

ZPrice · Nov 18, 2011

tweak120 said:
You may want to also check out CP-E for performance upgrades... I use them and so dose Warlord.

Probably agree with the CPE, they have quality products and you do pay for that, my FMIC, FP, MM and seals are CPE.

Sorry to get off topic, but TWEAK why are you going with a Stage 2 map, this is typically for full exhaust change outs and based on you list, you are not there. Doesn't really matter, the OTS map is merely the starting point as every car acts differently.

Z

tweak120 · Nov 18, 2011

Z good point!

I'm going to get there one of these days... It's just a matter of time. The car runs like a champ right now minus any ECU changes. If I do get an AP, I will probably just stick with stage 1 maps for right now.

ZPrice · Nov 18, 2011

Again sorry OP for being off-topic (below) but I believe your issues have been answered. One bit of advice, do your research for every purchase, as we all know the lowest cost is not always the direction to go. I have changed out several parts, i.e. TMIC for my CPE FMIC, lost a little cash, the ETS TMIC was a great product but I really wanted to go FMIC so someone got a good deal. As we are a few years into the GENPU era, options are being presented and new products are coming forward. Not a bad time for the platform, when I look at $/HP this was not a bad choice.

Tweak, you will be surprised at the clamps that can be removed with the AP. I am a noob to this, but with the help of others learning very quickly and starting to see some decent results. The nice thing about changing maps is copying the MAF table over, making some fuel, boost and WG changes and starting the process over. Run for 50 miles or so (watch LTFT until the settle down), MAF calibrate, modify the table, flash the map and start the true work. I will suggest Ablior's Tuning Guide, the ATR Help File and there are several other threads with alot of knowledge.

Z

MysticTim · Nov 18, 2011

Thanks everyone for your advice, there seems to be a whole new world opening up for me here.

Phase One:
Cold Air Intake
Turbo Inlet Pipe
AccessPORT

Phase Two:
Cat Back Exhaust
Downpipe

Phase Three:
High Pressure Fuel Pump
Front Mount Intercooler

From there who knows? Thanks again for help.

Oliverms3 · Nov 18, 2011

MysticTim said:
Thanks everyone for your advice, there seems to be a whole new world opening up for me here.

Phase One:
Cold Air Intake
Turbo Inlet Pipe
AccessPORT

Phase Two:
Cat Back Exhaust
High Pressure Fuel Pump

Phase Three:
Downpipe
Front Mount Intercooler

From there who knows? Thanks again for help.

Fixed!

mazdaspeedmyk · Nov 19, 2011

This is has been a very helpful thread. Can this get stickied, so that others can refer to it easily in the future?

warlord · Nov 21, 2011

You can move the fmic down one on the list. Downpipe trumps it. Fuel pump upgrade needs to be before or at the same time a downpipe gets installed. Also a good tmic like ETS or Cp-e will allow you you to run 20psi of boost without killing the stock KO4 turbo. It will heatsoak faster than a fmic but it still gives less pressure drop than the stock tmic so it's worth it. I'm having a hard time comming up with $1200 for a quality fmic so I might just go with a cp-e tmic for a little less than $400.

tweak120 · Nov 21, 2011

I have the Magnaflow 15557 Catback Exhaust and love it. Sound and the look it gives to the rear end is awsome!! NOT ricey at all if you know what I mean??

check it out here:

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...forums/2010-mazdaspeed-3-engine-performance/4351-magnaflow-catback-exhaust.html

If you have the money buy it... the car looks better!!

Just my two cents

E.Tinker · Nov 21, 2011

Don't forget to upgrade the rear motor mount or the shifter bushings...they might not be the most glamorous mods but they definitely make a difference in the power transmission/shifting ease of the car.

pzr2874 · Nov 22, 2011

Actually, this is the best route which isn't far off from a couple of you:

Just throw the HPFP/internals before the DP

https://www.streetunit.com/Articles.asp?ID=126

E.Tinker · Nov 22, 2011

Double Post :mellow 1:

E.Tinker · Nov 22, 2011

Below is an excerpt from COBB Tuning's Tuning Notes regarding the upgrade path for a 2010-2012 Speed3.

COBB Tuning said:
We've been asked by several people to help direct them with the most beneficial upgrade path. Below are our initial findings that we will continue to modify as evidence comes in and the data is verified. As far as the most beneficial (greatest bang-for-the-buck) upgrade path; the data is telling us that the following is ideal for the 2010+ MS3 platform:

1) AccessPORT + free flowing intake system. The stock ignition advance settings are a little aggressive, the stock calibration tends to create boost spikes, runs a bit lean on spool up (a bit lean for the DI Fuel Pressure this car runs), the throttle response is not very linear, etc. We know the stock intake is very restrictive (too small of a filter and air box for a FI application), relieving inlets restrictions helps the turbo/engine breath better and respond quicker.

2) CDFP upgrade + Turbo Inlet Hose (TIH). This allows slightly higher boost to be targeted and allows for the fueling capacity to keep up with the fueling demands. The stock CDFP can only keep up when 18psi or even less boost is targeted.

3) COBB DP or free flow exhaust system + upgraded BOV. If this path is chosen, keeping the stock 3-way catalyst is ideal and replacing only one catalyst with a test pipe and CBE will sufficiently increase VE. The increased exhaust flow will move the detonation threshold up and creates enough VE to allow for slightly higher boost targets. The stock BOV can hold well up to about 18.5psi, but not much above that and it tends to bleed off air throughout the RPM range during pulls. You can also upgrade the CBE exhaust when you do the downpipe installation for an ideal exhaust gas pressure relief.

4) TMIC upgrade (FMIC upgrade for upgraded turbo) + modified fueling system. The stock TMIC is the most effective configuration that we've seen to date. How Mazda plumbs the TMIC ducting from the front of the car (high pressure area) through the hood is very effective on the road, but the additional core size is very helpful at exchanging heat at the higher boost levels on the stock turbo. You can also install a FMIC to further prevent the heat soaking that a TMIC will see. With a higher capacity fuel system, you will be able to further benefit from higher base DI Fuel Pressure. With a fuel feed line that has a slightly larger orifice and with a safety relief valve that releases above 2000+psi, the fueling system capacity is increases by about 10% (which is very helpful) and with the higher pressure, the cooling effect of the fuel injection is increased.

5) Upgraded turbo. At this point in time, the stock turbo is working at is maximum and you can see this through the WGDC values that you log through the AccessPORT. The WGDC values will likely be at or above 90% from the mid RPM range to redline...letting you know that the stock turbo is spinning its head off. To help increase turbo life, you can target lower boost levels where the WGDC is around 80% by redline.

6) Upgraded exhaust manifold (EXM). We suggest this after the turbo upgrade because the stock exhaust manifold design is the limiting flow variables at this point. This helps relieve additional exhaust gas back pressure from the engine and rids the engine of the poor OEM EXM design. You can upgrade the EXM before the turbo, but it will require a full re-tune of the boost control system.

Granted, COBB is interested in pushing sales of their AccessPort...but their history also shows that they're interested in safely pushing the platform forward and providing a safe and effective DIY tuning solution for the MazdaSpeed community.

warlord · Nov 22, 2011

Steps #5 and #6 look fun. If I had the money a GTX3071 and a Steedspeed manifold would be on my car right now.

E.Tinker · Nov 22, 2011

Time to add more checkboxes to your sig :yes:.

Any further modding is on hold until after X-Mas for me...but maybe if I'm good Santa will bring me a FP upgrade.

warlord · Nov 23, 2011

If Edgeautosports has a black friday deal on a cp-e tmic I'll be whipping out the plastic for it. Gotta get that box checked off because all my cp-e mods in my sig don't line up right without a red X in the box. :tongue:

http://cp-e.com/imgs/MZRTMIC.pdf

pzr2874 · Nov 23, 2011

Dude, why didn't you pick one up when they were $350 ?

Although the price hasn't changed much since.

tweak120 · Nov 23, 2011

Can you send me the link for the "Black Friday deal" please? All I see is $20 off ($379) from what CP-e charges ($399).

Thanks

warlord · Nov 23, 2011

BLACK FRIDAY - Mazdaspeed Forums Also if you email jp@edgeautosports.com he always gives a better price than what is listed on the website.

warlord · Nov 23, 2011

I was busy spending money on all the other mods you see in my sig. First things first. Trying to mod in the correct order to avoid issues. Besides when the TMIC was $350 the hood scoop wasn't sitting correctly on the shroud and people were complaining about bent fins. The shroud is redesigned so it's time to buy and boost the KO4 to within an inch of it's life. JP at Edge will come through with a good price.

EDIT: Picked the cp-e TMIC up today for $340 shipped. Glad I waited so long.

tweak120 · Nov 24, 2011

$340 from Edge or CP-E using the 20% coupon code (4birds) from CP-E website??

warlord · Nov 24, 2011

20% off so $340 shipped from cp-e website using 4birds code. Edge is 5% off the $379 he has on his website, so it's $360 shipped from him. He also gives you 10% store discount for future use but I don't like being made to come back to get the extra discount.

blazingdisciple · May 9, 2013

Sorry to zombi-fie, but I wish this thread didn't die, although I did get a lot of good info.

mazdaspeedmyk · May 9, 2013

In terms of performance, I think we reached a consensus. So, I link people to this thread constantly.

Stage 1:
Cobb AP
SRI/TIP
HPFP upgrade - Autotech Internals or CPe full pump replacement

Stage 2:
Full Downpipe or Downpipe/Test Pipe combo
TMIC or FMIC
One Step colder plugs.
BPV
CBE
Pro-Tune

Suspension:
RSB
Coils or Springs, Shocks and Struts.
Tires
Wheels
Brake Pads and Rotors
SS brake lines
Better brake fluid, ex: ATE Super Blue

Shifting:
RMM
SSP and Shifter bushings.
Full short shifter replacement
Tranny fluid: Motorcraft XT-M5-QS
Shift knob

Appearance options:
Tint
Window Visors, OEM or BaysonR
Lip kits
AutoExe Front Bumper or Garage Vary grill insert
Hella Horns
Lug nuts

SPEND!!!

swsmailman · May 19, 2013

mazdaspeedmyk said:
In terms of performance, I think we reached a consensus. So, I link people to this thread constantly.

Stage 1:
Cobb AP
SRI/TIP
HPFP upgrade - Autotech Internals or CPe full pump replacement

Stage 2:
Full Downpipe or Downpipe/Test Pipe combo
TMIC or FMIC
One Step colder plugs.
BPV
CBE
Pro-Tune

Question about this...
SRI/TIP plus FMIC in stage 1 and 2
Or the FMIC with Ram Air in stage 1?

mazdaspeedmyk · May 20, 2013

Save a FMIC or TMIc till Stage 2. Spend the money on an AP and internals first, then the sky's the limit.

swsmailman · May 20, 2013

Makes sense, I guess the question I Have is, is it better to run a SRI/TIP plus FMIC or to do a FMIC with Ram Air instead in a stage one or stage two arena. If I'm definitely going to do a FMIC, wouldn't the ram air be a better option? IMO.

warlord · May 20, 2013

Stay away from that Ram Air. It sounds cool but everyone that bought one wasn't very happy. It's not supported by any Cobb map. All the tuners on MSF say that it's very difficult to get the fuel trims right with it. It's cheaply made and flimsy. Definitely not CS's best work.

I your going FMIC do it proper. COBB, CP-E, Ultimate Racing or a CX Racing piping kit and a Treadstone TR8 core. Your in East Texas. These FMIC's will provide the cooling you need. Lesser kits won't.

swsmailman · May 21, 2013

Thanks man, I knew I could count on you in providing some great answers. Good to know about the Ram Air stuff and what MSF have said about it.

Will definitely be coming back to this thread when I get the Speed3 should know something next week at the latest.

13MZSpeed3 · Feb 8, 2014

if I go the AP and internals route first, how much will mpg be affected?

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mazdaspeedmyk · Feb 8, 2014

How bout AP, internals, and a resonator delete?

13MZSpeed3 · Feb 8, 2014

I already have the res delete.

How will mpg be affected? More power equals less mpg.

The more I'm reading online, the more I want to spend. Haha. AP and internals. DP and exhaust. So many choices

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Please help me upgrade my 2010 MS3

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