How To Change the Oil in a Mazda 3 (2.3 and 2.0 Models)
Posted on 04. Nov, 2008 by Axelaspeed in How-To Guides, Mazda3 Guide, What's Hot
Please Note: This guide is only for the Mazda 3 (2.0 and 2.3 models) sedans and hatchbacks. We will offer a Mazdaspeed 3 guide in the future.
Tools Used
10mm socket
17mm socket
Flat Head Tip
6mm Allen Key
Universal Oil Filter Wrench
Two (2) Jack Ramps
Two (2) Jack Stands
Two (2) Floor Jacks
Oil Container
Part Numbers for Oil Filters and Oil Specs
2.3 filter with O-ring and washer - LF10-14-302
2.0 cartridge filter - L321-14-302-9U
Oil - 4.25 quarts (5w-20)
Disclaimer - Use this guide with the proper precautions in place and at your own risk. This guide is not certified by Mazda. Mazda3Revolution is not responsible for any damage or injury caused by misuse of this guide.
Preparing for the Oil Change (2.0L and 2.3L)
1) Make sure your car is on the ground level.

2) Line the car up with the ramps and slowly drive the car up the ramp until the tires rest safely on the ramp platforms.
3) Using the floor jacks, place one jack on each side of the car for extra stability and safety.
Note: The jacks should be placed under the control arms.
Your car should look like this when ready.

Now it’s time to change the oil.
4) Open up the hood.
5) Remove the Engine cover. It should come off with little force.
Note: Engine covers are different from 2004-2005 and the 2006+ models. The one shown below is for 2006 - 2009 Mazda 3s.
6) Unscrew the oil cap. (Located on the rear, left side of the motor.)
Photo Above: Oil cap removed.
7) Underneath the car is the undercarriage. There are going to be 7 nuts, and 2 fasteners. If you have already taken it to a shop or a dealer you maybe missing some screws or they may have been replaced with different ones.
8.) Once the undercarriage cover is off, place the oil pan under your car.
9) Take the 17mm socket and loosen the bolt as shown in the photo below.
10) Remove the bolt and let the oil drain. You might want to take a break as this can take a while.
Caution: Make sure the car has been turned off for a few hours before attempting to change oil because the oil will be very hot otherwise.
11) Once the oil has finished draining you can place the plug back in with a new metal washer that comes with the filter. You can also reuse the existing washer if you would like.
2.0L Specific Oil Changing Instructions
1) Use a Mazda certified oil filter wrench or one that you are comfortable with to loosen the oil filter.
2) Remove the filter and wipe the area clean after the oil has finished draining.
3) Replace your old filter with a new filter and tighten it by hand. Make sure that the filter is securely tightened.
4) Add oil (see 2.3L guide, step 7) and verify that there are no leaks.
5) Verify that you have put enough oil into the motor by checking the oil dipstick at ground level after your Mazda 3 has idled for a minute or two. If the oil dipstick indicates that the oil level is too low then add more oil until you have reached the “Fill” mark.
Note: Oil must be properly disposed of according to your local town’s requirements. You can recycle your oil by bringing it to participating local recycling centers or automotive stores like AutoZone, Advanced Auto Parts and Pep Boys.
That’s all there is to the 2.0L oil change.
2.3L Specific Oil Changing Instructions
1) Using the 6mm allen key remove the plug from the plastic housing. Let it drain.
Note: If the housing spins as you are turning the plug tighten the plug again so the housing is tight. From there you will be able to remove the plug without having to worry about the housing moving.
2) Once the oil has stopped dripping change the washer from the plug. Make sure you lubricate the new washer with oil and replace the old one.
3) Wipe the plastic housing clean with a rag. Then insert the plug back into housing.
4) Use an oil filter wrench (either one that is recommended by Mazda or something that you are sure will not break the housing.) to remove the plastic housing.
5) Once the housing is removed let the oil drip, clean the housing and change the filter and washer.
Photo Above: This is what the used filter and washer should look like when done. Remember to put oil on the new washer before putting it into the housing.
6) Now it is time to put everything back together. First tighten the housing by hand and then use the allen key to finish tightening the housing. To check that it is tight you should undo the plug within the housing and if the housing spins while you are undoing the plug you need to tighten the plug more and you will see the housing tighten itself.
7) Once everything is secure you can add up to 4.25 quarts of oil.
8.) Run your car and check below to see if you have any oil leaks. If you have no leaks then put everything back together, remove the jack stands and back the car off of the ramps.
8B) Verify that you have put enough oil into the motor by checking the oil dipstick at ground level after your Mazda 3 has idled for a minute or two. If the oil dipstick indicates that the oil level is too low then add more oil until you have reached the “Fill” mark.
Note: Oil must be properly disposed of according to your local town’s requirements. You can recycle your oil by bringing it to participating local recycling centers or automotive stores like AutoZone, Advanced Auto Parts and Pep Boys.
That’s all there is to it!
Update: Thank you to everyone who sent in comments and suggestions on ways to improve the how-to guide. We have amended the article to include some finer details that were left out at the time it was originally published. We apologize for any confusion or inconvenience this may have caused.
Did you find this how-to guide helpful? See any area for improvement? Leave us a comment below and let us know what you think!
























10 Comments
marc
04. Nov, 2008
What was the total for the filter and oil all together
David
04. Nov, 2008
In Canada the filter is about $11- $13 depending on which retailer you go to. Oil depends on if you go with synthetic, semi-synthetic or regular motor oil.
axelaspeed
04. Nov, 2008
The filter itself at the dealer is like $6-7 dollars, oil cost me about 24 dollars, because I am using high mileage. Oil cost is different depending on what your using. I spend about 30 bucks for everything.
rdspeed3
04. Nov, 2008
i can’t believe they forgot the part where you check the oil on level ground after running the engine for 1 minute. you’ll probably need to add another .5L or so. and if you have a speed3 its 5W-30 not 5W20.
Joe
06. Nov, 2008
Does anyone know the size of the 7 nuts underneath?
DeuxEx3
06. Nov, 2008
Joe - They are 10 mm.
Elbi
15. Nov, 2008
Also if you are in a hot weather like I am (Puerto Rico) you should go with 5W30 instead of the 5W20 that Mazda recommends.
Palmer
26. Nov, 2008
Is there any downside to NOT replacing the plastic undercarriage cover? Seems like it is a problem every time the oil is changed
eddie
03. Dec, 2008
Nice guide. A bit more comprehensive than what I do, I've streamlined the process in the 2+ years I've owned my 2006 3S GT. My quick and dirty method: No jacks or jack stands. A couple of Wal-mart drive up ramps, e-brake, leave it in 1st gear. Unsafe, maybe, but I don't climb under the car. I can reach the drain plug and filter housing without putting my body under the car. No need to remove the engine cover. Use a funnel to prevent spillage. No need to drop the skid plate completely either. . I remove the nearest 4 10mm bolts and let the cover hang halfway off. You may splash a little oil on it when you remove the filter housing but a quick wipe with a rag takes care of that. I also do not remove the filter housing drain plug. I put a pan under it to catch any spillage. I only change the big o-ring every other time, too. I did buy the Mazda wrench for the filter housing. You do not want to strip that.
Total time for the oil change is about 15 minutes.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A2...
Axelaspeed
10. Dec, 2008
The only downside from not putting your undercarriage is: Debree could fly up there and damage something. Driving in winter weather or near the beach, may cause corrosion. its just there to protect underneath the car. its totally up to you if you dont want it on. I have bee driving without mine for awhile no issues. but i’d like to put i back on as soon as i get a new one, mine ripped off one day due to rusted bolts and missin ones from when the dealer changed the oil.
Leave a reply