I am assembling a parts list. It will serve as a checklist and reference. items added as needed/time permit. Feedback appreciated. Some of these items (especially fittings) might be cheaply available at local hardware stores, but I included them here just in case.

Mechanical:
Scavenger oil Pump - Turbowerx scavenger pump. Not cheap, but it's an important part that I don't want to skimp on. Needed to return oil from the turbo back to the motor. One way valve before the turbo and after the pump. T off the oil pressure, still deciding best placement for return line. The motor will be either on a switch or wired to run when the car is on. If I can find a practical set up for self contained that's even better.
Base-Model Pump

Turbo - 57/58 trim turbo with anti surge and internal WG

T3 T4 V Band Flange Exhaust T04E A R 63 Anti Surge Turbo turbocharger Wastegate | eBay

Blow of valve - Type - S with flange pipe
As much as I want noise, per tuners recommendation, I will be hooking this up to recirculate. A hybrid may come later.
Universal Billet Anodized Type s Turbo Blow Off Valve 2 5" Flange Pipe Silver | eBay

Electrics
Maf Extension Cord - My maf needs to be pre-turbo per tuners preference.I will cut the wire down the middle splice them and run the wiring through the firewall and out the access ports in the rear to the my corksport MAF.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Lexus-Scion-MAF-Sensor-Breakout-Harness-/252127055122?hash=item3ab3f18d12:g:I0sAAOSwI-BWIDrA&vxp=mtr

3-Bar Map Sensor for reading boost (stock only reads 1.8psi)

Heat Exchangers
Intercooler - Black IC, maybe the version with a hose/pipe kit f I determine those parts to fit my needs. Oem diesel intercooler would be great since the mounting point are already there, but it's proving hard to source. I'm going to keep searching though.
28" Black Universal Billet Aluminum Turbo Front Mount Intercooler Tube Fin | eBay

Oil Cooler - 7 row 10 an.
7 Row 10AN Powder Coated Aluminum Engine Transmission Oil Cooler Kit Blue | eBay

Fittings
New OEM drain pan to tap
dealer

T3 inlet flange - Exhaust pipe to turbo
T3 Turbo Inlet to 3" OD Stainless Steel Pipe Weld Adapter Flange Gasket Stud | eBay - Got one with a Vband instead

Pipe weldable bov flange - for recirculation before maf. Need one for the other side as well, to attach silicon hose unless I choose to go metal.
Outlet Type R RS s RZ Blow Off BOV Turbo Stainless Steel Weld Flange Charge Pipe | eBay
Inlet Type R RS s RZ Blow Off BOV Turbo Aluminum Weld Flange Charge Pipe | eBay ended up getting a different one

Oil Feed/Drain adapter kit for turbo. built in .0045 restrictor.
T3 T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo 4AN Oil Feed 10 An Oil Drain Adapter Anodized Blue | eBay

Oil pressure sensor T - Steel Looks like a good unit.
1 8" BSPT Oil Pressure Sensor Tee to NPT Adapter Turbo Honda Mitsubishi | eBay

an4(1/8 ) hose for the turbo oil feed
4AN An 4 An 4 4 8 mm 3 16" Stainless Steel Fuel Oil Gas Braided Hose Line 1ft | eBay

an4 end hose adaptors as needed
4AN AN4 An 4 Straight Red Blue Aluminum Swivel Hose End Fitting Adapter Coupler | eBay

an10 adaptor for pan tap

AN10 10 An 5 8 18 UNF Oil Fuel Line Hose End Male Female Fitting Adaptor Blue | eBay

an10 hose for turbo drain
10 An Braided Stainless Steel Hose Oil Gas Line Turbo Drain Cooler 1250 PSI | eBay

An10 end hose adaptors as needed
10 An AN10 10AN Straight Swivel Hose End Fitting Adaptor Aluminum | eBay

An10 inline filter - pre pump
Racing Ready Inline Fuel Filter AN10 10 An Blue with 100 Micron Element SS | eBay

 

Oil Feed/Drain adapter kit for turbo. built in .0045 restrictor.
T3 T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo 4AN Oil Feed 10 An Oil Drain Adapter Anodized Blue | eBay

Journal bearing turbos do not use oil restrictors. Your Ebay turbo looks like a copy of a 15 year old diesel turbo. The bearing housing should be water cooled.
With the amount of turbo lag you'll have, this seems more like a personal science experiment.

 

 

What turbo is it?

 

Chinese. It will do as is for bay and manifold fitting but it wont go onto the car (if I get that far) until its rebuilt. I've already determined I will have to partially disassemble to get it in from the top. I bought a 22mm socket to remove the 02 so I can take the heat shield off and see the actual space there. Possible using an oem mani (well designed and I woukd want to keep the low end tq when not under boost helped by its design)with the cat cut and add the t3 flange/ up pipe there. Otherwisena log manifold would be a great space saving option but I'm worried about low down tq from that type. I will reference the diesel for ic piping as the mounts are all there. Oil cooler ( aside from the very small oem one) can go in somewhere, around the fan if there is space. I was looking at the barrel type, but I don't think I want extra coolant lines run.

 

I haven't looked at the room in a 5 yet, but in the 3 at least after the cat there isn't room to mount it on the manifold. Also where the cat starts and ends it is not perfectly round tubing. You're almost better off using some sort of aftermarket Tri-Y, and welding the flange at the end of it. It would almost be easier to run a remote setup.

The amount of low-end tq that you may lose going to a simple manifold would be negligible. You probably won't notice too much then you will hit boost.

 

Compressor:
Trim: 57
A/R: 0.53
Inducer/ Exducer (mm): 50mm / 76mm
Turbine:
Trim: 58
A/R: 0.63
Inducer: 66mm / 56mm

Enough for a low boost with a vband and anti surge

 

Yea, it's a bit difficult to tell how much space is available there with the heatshield on it. There seems to be a bi of space though, but I wouldn't know how to compares to mz3. I'll post pics once the HS is off.

 

I ran across a guy on a local mazda fb page who makes manifolds. I think I will try to get a t3 log manifold from him if the price is right. Gonna try to have a look at the unshielded mani tomorrow morning.

 

Doesn't seem like I will be able to remove the heat shield from the stop without making it a 2piece part. Using some pretty crude test fitting I'm pretty sure a log manifold with a simple downwards facing t3 flange (no wastegate port) will give me enough room.

mani exposed

 

That V-band flange cast/ machine work looks like crap.

20 bux says it cracks there after a few heat cycles

 

I'm currently looking for someone to fab me a simple no WG manifold pretty much similar to this I'm 90% certain if this exact disgn had the 2.5 exhaust flange it would work fitment wise. I sent a mail to ovtuned. A local on a mazda fb page who said he makes manifolds seemed uninterested when I actually messaged him.

mz 2.0/2.3 mani (also no wg)
Ford Focus 2 3 Mazda 3 2 0 2 3 T25 IHI Turbo Cast Manifold Exhaust | eBay

 

Not worried about it. It's mainly for fitting and testing. The inside of that area is fine. For that little rough spot to be cleared that band would have to be machined down even more, meaning more material removed. I work at a crematory. Our machine(s) has plenty of metal/brick parts that are heated 2000+f for hours then cooled and heated over and over. With fluids getting on them sometimes too. From my experience I would be surprised if that cracked.

 

Do it!

 

You might be better off squeezing a td04h in there from a subaru. They are plentiful and easy to come by.

 

Yea, I'm going to do a remote set up. Thanks @Brandon@CorkSport, I had never heard of that until you mentioned it. Seems way more viable, cost effective (no turbo manifold needed) and safe (lower temp and low boost anyway) for this engine.
C&p from my pos ton mz247 I made today.
A remote turbo set up is one in which the turbocharger is mounted somewhere down the exhaust stream, rather than on the exhaust manifold. Some benefits that are attractive to me:

No turbo manifold is needed - I found that even though there is space behind the engine for a turbo (specially with a shorter manifold), no one has a head flange for the 2.5 sky and you'd be paying to have a one off manifold built (unless you build your own). Even still, it's a cramped space and most turbos will be too large to get behind the engine without partial disassembly; a hassle. Also frees up the engine bay of pipes bent everywhere. A big $$$ saver either way.

Cooler air charge - Because the turbo is further down the exhaust stream, turbo temperatures are lower (up to 500f on some applications) meaning less wear on the turbo/oil, greater effectiveness of the intercooler, all around lower temperatures and better tuning potential.

Some people complain about turbo lag on remotes, some don't (but then again people get turbo lag with a front mount turbo too). I dont give a shit about a half a second of turbo lag I give a shit that I'm getting boost lol. The oil line will need to be run further with the addition of a scavenger pump for return; not a big deal for the cx-5 as the transmission tunnel/space above the underbody panels provides plenty of routing space or space for a self contained oil system for the turbo (that will clear the yoke for the rear diff). The space on the rear axle is ample thanks to it being designed to accommodate a hitch.
Ovtune offers boost tuning and the only part that will need to be upgraded on the block is the OEM map sensor. It caps and 1.8 PSI so a better one is needed. An oem Mazdaspeed or bosch type will work just fine. Actually corksport just released and 3 bar sensor.


Basically since the majority of the work on this just exhaust style piping, with the exception of the oil return or self contained oil, once I find a shop that will give me a good price on sizing and welding up the tubing I should be good to go. It will have to move quickly from there then I will pay for boost tuning (my tune right now is only for NA) from OVtuned (or drive with the WG fully open/charger disconnected or no exhaust until I get a tune lol. I don't believe I will need a large IC, the front of the cx-5 is already sized for an intercooler (diesel)I and If I wanted I may be able to fir a small one under the rear bumper.



Yea, if physical size becomes an issue that would be a good alternative. I paid $175 for this one, I'm sure I can resell it for 125 or trade it for something like an IC.

I found some 04's for less than $ 200, one is designed more standard type, cx-7 direct replacement http://www.ebay.com/itm/K04-1-8T-1-...r-VW-K03-KO3-Passat-OEM-UPGRADE-Turbo-/191132484689?hash=item2c80624451&vxp=mtr
and another one is for an audi replacement, but it has a slim design where it doesn't bulge much.. that would actually be ideal for this type of installation.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-03-A4-PA...er-UPGRADE-TURBO-BOLT-ON-VW-KO4-300HP-/191491484276?hash=item2c95c82a74&vxp=mtr

 

Guys, is the 4 bolt rectangular flange the outlet or inlet for this (OEM) mazdspeed TMIC??

 

Outlet, the square goes to a cast pieces that goes directly to the TB.

 

Good places to tap vaccum for bov? The wastegate is internal so I will only need external vacuum for bov

 

I can't see how going remote is a good idea on this car. Remotes are typically OK if you have a big engine (IS-F, LSx, 5-0) when you're pushing enough gas out the back that the exhaust tubing is pretty much pressurized at idle. You're trying to do the same with an engine literally half the displacement, the turbo lag isn't going to be insignificant.

Given how much more room you have for the OEM exhaust manifold I don't get why you wouldn't cut it up and route the tubes into a 4-1 collector with a small turbo there. The entire setup will take up less space than the OEM manifold itself and all you need to do is route the boost pipe under the oil pan to get it to the intercooler.

 

+1, you run into a lot more issues with back mount turbos too. Longer oil lines, vac lines, etc... You'll need small piping to the turbo then large piping after or you'll experience a good amount of turbo lag.

 

I wont have any vac lines going to the rear, wg is internal bov is front. Oil line and maf will be rear located, seen a couple examples of low displacement remotes like a miata with 15 psi. Plus the manifold was proving to be more time, $ and error because of the location and difficulty in removing it (awd). I had to disassemble the turbo just to get it back there, and even with a smaller one (I was suggested a ko4 type which actually would have been a better physical fit for either set up) the piping would be very tight. Remotely, technically once the turbo is placed by a shop and a few thing are welded ( t3 flange to pipe, recirc flange probably an exhaust hanger bung I could test everything with pipes and couplers ( I don't weld but the $150 elder at harbor freight was tempting, I just don't want cracks). +iat, turbo inlet and engine bay temps will be lower..not interested in running water /meth. More systems to monitor and maintain imo.

 

I have little experience with mounting turbo's so mostly my suggestion's are to work out what would be the best process and end product cause I think this thing would be fuckin' awesome once you finish it off.

Seems like Color0's suggestions make a lot of sense. I get that you want the instillation to be as easy as possible, but done right>done twice.

As far as the space constraints go, you're probably working on a tight timeline and don't want to undo motor mounts and things to get more space just for fitting but if you check out this turbo instillation in a mazda 5 (I know but seriously). This is a surprisingly good resource for walking through a turbo instillation. He gets this done in a weekend it seems, leaves it mostly no boost for a bit then gets the tune done over the course of a few weeks.

To get more room around the heat shield he hinges the motor up unhooking a motor mounts and moving things out of the way.

Just some food for thought

 

Ghetto set up but

 

I think i'm going to pick up a stick welder and see how well I can do and decide if I want to weld it myself. I have the tools to cut the metal already.

 

SMAW on thin pipes is not easy, even more of a pain in the ass on stainless.

good luck

 

moved to first post

 

 

Are you selling those?

 

STS specializes in the rear mount setup and I remember seeing them use oil less turbos. I believe Comp sells them. Probably not cheap though.

 

Way to leak ovtuned lol

 

I don't see a turbo in there, or an intercooler, just saying

 

I mean it could he a header but i seen silicon hoses. I think i see a tb

 

"gets it done in a weekend" is a harsh understatement haha.

To me, the tubing, and re-routing seemed to be the most "simple" part (relative), except for extending O2 sensor lines and things like that. But even those aren't too difficult, just tedious.

The tapping is nerve wracking, but also not terribly technically difficult.

The brackets he made were just for the intercooler, weren't they. If the CX-5 is equipped to run one already for the diesel integration you shouldn't have to worry about that.

The most difficult thing to come by/design would be the manifold like you already mentioned. After that it's more of the same stuff you would be doing with a remote setup, but in tighter spaces.