It looks like your drain plug already has a washer on it. Sometimes the washer is painted black from the factory as it appears in your picture.

 

Your plug has the washer on it. If you take a razor it will pry off the bolt. Look at the seam between the head and washer. Like Wymi said, it's painted black from the factory.

 

I think your right, anyway it is not much of a crush washer, did not trust it to seal.

 

One thing I can add is to fill the filter with oil before installing it.

 

Good suggestion! Since the filter is vertical you can definitely do that.

 

So it looks like the filter is a spin on filter? If so, that's a relief. My MZ6 2.3 used a canister type filter which I would never trust to a quick change shop. I always go to the dealer for my service, but it's nice to know I could somewhere else in a pinch.

As for the DIY guys and gals, I've done it before when I was younger, but don't care to anymore and can afford to pay for it to be done by someone else.

My first DIY oil change was on my 67 chevelle with a cartridge filter... Didn't get the gasket on right and dumped a lot of oil on the ground when it was started. Then I had to lay in a pool of oil while I fixing it. Needless to say, I got much better at it after that.

 

Yes its a typical spin on filter.

 

Dealer said it would be $75-80 for an oil change. I said what if I bring my own oil and filter. $10 labor. OK. I'll pay them 10 bucks to do it for me at this time of year. Mobil one 0-20 at walmart is about $25. Now I just need to figure out what size filter.

 

My dealer charges $40.00 for oil & filter, tire rotation and a car wash. Use an OE filter.

 

Thank you very much,
I will have my dealer do my first oil change since it's free, after that it will only be $50. That includes tire rotation, hand wash(not to keen in that) and other fluids topped off. Depending on what oil and filter they use I may go back to them.

 

Moved to the 2014 How To section.

Thanks for the write up. Right thumb!

 

mazda dealers are alll over the map with their oil change pricing here in the san francisco bay area.

i got prices from $30 to $120!!! for an oil change.

I went with the $30 one. it was a mazda filter, with 0w-20 castrol. no premium for synthetic. this was from fremont mazda when they switched ownership last year. i guess they need to get people to visit their dealer.

 

$30 with the castrol oil is a great deal. I'd stop changing my own oil for that price.

 

Thanks for the post. I usually DIY all my car maintenance, but my dealer offers free oil changes FOR LIFE as long as I own my '14 3iGT. Sweet!

 

You can add a fumoto f106 valve too for more efficient (including a hose nipple) oil change next time.

 

So no one else got free maintenance for life? Thought that was a Mazda thing. This was my first Mazda so I don't know any different. Documented professional work by certified Mazda technicians? Yes please

 

If I was offered this from my dealer I would have turned it down because:
1. I do not want a dealer working on my car ever if I can avoid it, and for the last 20 yrs I have only had one of my 5 cars in on one occasion.
2. I'm sure it only covers oil changes and inspections (there really isn't much else in the way of preventative maint. except for plug changes at 100k miles.)
3. I'm also sure that a dealer that offers that is not a volume dealer that will offer the lowest price.
Most people don't realize that these trained professionals are just as likely to do poor work as anyone else. :taz:

 

Was wondering... The dealer told me that my car is due for an oil change every... 8000km or 4 months

This would be my first oil change, would you guys suggest getting it done earlier to flush out all the crap from breaking in the engine or wait till 8000km

Edit: I'm at 1800km so far.

 

I asked my dealer that and he said that it is not recommended to do it earlier. Guys get so hyper about stuff left in the crankcase. We'll news for them ; that's what a good oil filter is there for. Yet after the first change you hear some these same" auto engineers" say they go up to 8000 miles on the second or third change. Go figure !

 

If anyone is interested the oil filter number in

Mobil One is M1-108 for the 2.0
Fram is TG6607 or PH6607
Wix is 51365

The 2.5 uses the same filter has the 2.0..

 

The Skyactiv Wix filter # is 57002.

 

I'm having difficulty finding where to put the jack and I'm afraid to remove the pins holding on the access panel because I fear they may break. Can anyone give me some help as to where I need to place the jack and how I can remove the pins?

 

The Jack goes on the side of the car, near the front wheel, as indicated by the owners manual.
The pins have a small inner pin that you can use a screwdriver to pry down a little (see pics on the at the beginning of this thread). Once you pop that inner pin down you can pull the entire pin out.

 

What size oil filter wrench did you use and where did you get it? I am finding conflicting info on what size to get.

Thanks.

 

The wrench I show in the picture actually is too large, I used a large pair of channel lock plyers to get my filter off. I was planning to start buying the Fram filters that have the rubber on the end because they are cheap and easy to remove, since you can get a good grip on the rubber. As everyone will point out Fram filters are pretty crappy but, I think they do the job well enough. If you really want one of those filter wrenches I could measure the filter and try to determine what size it uses.

 

I have a filter and it seemed to measure to 65mm so I bought a 65mm wrench and it was too small. My guess is a 66 or 67 mm.

Thanks.

 

Great DIY information! Thanks!

 

Where are you guys putting the jack stands to hold your car up?
Are you putting them directly on the pinch welds? I'm coming from a car that had frame rails going down each side of the car and kind of paranoid about folding over the pinch welds.

Also, if you want more info about about oil filters, this guy cut open a whole bunch of them for his Subaru Forester.
The Purolator part numbers match the ones for our Mazda3. Didn't check the other brands.
(All Years) Subaru oil filter comparison - Subaru Forester Owners Forum

 

I'm new to the Mazda scene, but will most likely do the following with my new 2014 Mazda3.

Use Mazda OEM Filters for the first 5 years/50K miles so that if there are any warranty issues with the powertrain on the car, I can prove that no aftermarket oil filters were used. Even if one used aftermarket filters, Mazda would have to prove that the use of these filters caused issues with the powertrain to deny a warranty claim. I just don't want to deal with this sort of issue if it arises so I will use the OEM filters. Not really a big deal since you can get 5 of them for about $40. I also plan to change the oil myself and use Castrol Edge 0W-20 as the newest revision of the oil meets/exceeds the GF-5 requirement. Dealers just charge way too much money in my area for this sort of service.

After the 5 years/50K miles warranty is over, I will switch to the use of aftermarket filters. I have owned two other Japanese cars where I have used the same methodology as described above. One car had about 200K miles when I sold it and the other had 246K miles when it was retired. I used a mix of FRAM and/or STP filters from the local AutoZone. The reason for the use of both was that I would purchase the circular's "oil change special" and sometimes, I got FRAM and sometimes I got STP. I did not see the logic to pay more money to get a "premium filter". I never had any issues with the use of these filters. Oil changes were always performed at 7500 miles by myself.

Until concrete evidence can be brought forth to contradict the experiences that I have had over the past 21 years with my two previous Japanese cars, I will continue doing what I have been doing with my new 2014 Mazda3.

 

I used Motorcraft 5-20 and Fram filters in my 2006 Mazda5. I changed the oil every 5,000 miles and the filter every other time (every 10,000 miles). It was running great at 180,000 miles when I traded it in on the 3. YMMV...

I'll likely do like the poster above and use Mazda filters until the drive train warranty is up. And likely Mazda oil. I say that because I read about some CX7 owners who got "sludge" in the engine and Mazda didn't honor the warranty. With the Skyactiv engine being a new concept, and few have gone 50,000 miles at this point, I'll err on the side of caution.

After that, I'll likely use whatever fully synthetic oil of the proper weight is cheapest, and replace the filter every other change.

Again, to each his own.

 

Changed my oil yesterday. Thanks for the turtorial! It was good to know the right tools in advance.

It was a pain to get to the front jack point, though. I had to drive onto some boards to get enough clearance to get my jack in from the front. Pinch welds held up fine on the jack stands, so I'm no longer worried about that.

Does anyone know the correct oil filter wrench to use? I have a 65/67mm for my Toyota, but it didn't fit on the Mazda one! I saw the part number for Mazda's filter wrench is A255. Will this one from Amazon work?
Amazon.com: CTA Tools A255 Cap-Type Oil Filter Wrench, 65 / 67-Millimeter: Home Improvement

 

Changed my oil yesterday. Thanks for the turtorial! It was good to know the right tools in advance.

It was a pain to get to the front jack point, though. I had to drive onto some boards to get enough clearance to get my jack in from the front. Pinch welds held up fine on the jack stands, so I'm no longer worried about that.

Does anyone know the correct oil filter wrench to use? I have a 65/67mm for my Toyota, but it didn't fit on the Mazda one! I saw the part number for Mazda's filter wrench is A255. Will this one from Amazon work?
Amazon.com: CTA Tools A255 Cap-Type Oil Filter Wrench, 65 / 67-Millimeter: Home Improvement

Sorry if it has been answered, but where is the front jack point on this car? I am used to having it under the front bumper, but looking under the 3 I gave up and just picked up a pair of rhino ramps. Amazingly, they actually worked.

I'm kinda squeamish about taking my car to a dealer for repairs, I changed oil in my mom's saab after it has been serviced on a dealer and I had to use a breaker bar to get the drain plug off. Also, after a tire rotation at the dealer I had super hard time getting lug nuts off on another car. They must've been tightened to 300 ft lbs haha.

I also used this filter wrench

it dents your old filter to grab onto it, but you aren't gonna be reusing it, right?

 

Thanks for the pics, I now know that I don't need the adapter/extender for the fumoto valve. My first 2 oil changes are at the dealer, but provided my own oil. I'll likely do my own from here on out. especially seeing how easily the filter is to access compared to my NC Miata.

 

There is more to a oil filter than filtering, too much resistance to flow lowers oil pressure, rubber or silicone back flow valve, placement of back flow (top or bottom). I only use manufacturers filters (not worth 2 or 3 dollar difference) if you plan to keep your car. Had a bad experience on a VW van with fram filters 28 years ago.

 

I would like to hear about your bad experience.

 

86 Vanagon I think, water cooled flat 4. No oil leak till I installed a fram filter. It leaked around the filter, took it to dealer, they stated too restrictive, pressure was on low side of normal range. They install a VW filter (Mann or Mahle I believe makes them for VW)and normal pressure and no leaking. They stated do not use fram.

 

What a pain in the ass this was to change the oil. I love this car but not being able to have a jack point right in front center is annoying, as is practically throwing my right shoulder out getting the filter and drain plug out. Lord knows why the hell it's on there so tight. Saving grace was local dealer charged $6 a quart for Mazda 0w-20, sparing me a trip to Wallyworld.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

What a pain in the ass this was to change the oil. I love this car but not being able to have a jack point right in front center is annoying, as is practically throwing my right shoulder out getting the filter and drain plug out. Lord knows why the hell it's on there so tight. Saving grace was local dealer charged $6 a quart for Mazda 0w-20, sparing me a trip to Wallyworld.

Ramps are by far the easiest way to change the oil on nearly every car. And it's pretty common for FWD cars to not have a jacking point directly in the front and center...it does seem to be back pretty far on the 3, but that's why I have a long and low jack.